Tintern Abbey, the Devil's Pulpit, and Bawdy Sermons

A few miles from the border, you'll find Tintern Abbey…

Thursday, May 31, 2007
Tintern, Wales

Tintern Abbey--which dates from the 12th century--is wonderfully picturesque, set on the banks of the River Wye in South Wales, but a few miles from the border with England.

The village is strung out along the river, the land rising steeply away on either side. Tracks lead up between the trees on the west or you can cross the river by footbridge and follow the path high up to the Devil's Pulpit where legend says that Satan himself preached bawdy sermons to tempt the monks down in the valley below.

In the summer, this dramatic ruin is occasionally used for theatrical productions, but even in winter its majesty and desolation are breath-taking.

A little farther upstream is the Abbey Mill Wye Valley Craft Center with a huge selection of local handicrafts; if you're lucky, you may find one of the craftsmen giving a demonstration. On sunny days you can sit outside the Cider Barn Restaurant and sample such delights as the super-hot Dragon Pie or the oversized Mill Wheel teacake. When it's wet, you can sit at a table next to the conservatory window and watch the rain dimple the water in the trout pool.

Plus, you'll find pubs, art galleries, and antique and bric-a-brac shops aplenty to amuse you, and a second-hand bookshop specializing in rare editions.

If you follow the road north a short way out of town, you'll reach the Old Station. From May to the end of October light meals and snacks are available, and the disused signal box is used to house art exhibitions. Some weekends you'll find a tiny steam train operating, to the delight of children and adults alike.

Gwyneth Box
For International Living

P.S. If you are driving there is plenty of parking for visitors on the main road. Buses run from Chepstow every few hours but it's essential to check the times. The village website gives further details of many activities and services available in and around the area.