El Silencio

* Our horses take refuge in the shade of a tree on the peaceful ranch of El Silencio 

Read more about Uruguay in International Living Postcards--your daily escape

Friday, Sept. 7, 2007
Durazno, Uruguay

I am staying at El Silencio, a traditional estancia (ranch) in Uruguay, just two hours from Montevideo. The food is unpretentious and delicious, and the staff friendly.

From the large dining hall at the front, I can sit by the fire and watch the spectacular moonrises and dazzling stars.

I returned from a leisurely horse ride one evening, and met three men rolling massive bales of wool onto a truck. I was told that all the wool shorn over the last four years had been stockpiled in a barn…but that today was the day: the price was right, and it was time to sell.

At El Silencio, guests can join in with the gauchos' daily chores, horseride, fish, swim in the river, or enjoy the spectacular bird life. Mariela (the estancia owner), will welcome you as one of the family. Nelida, the abuelita (little granny) is a cheerful old lady who lives in a modest home and is kept busy making ponchos and saddle linings for the local gauchos. Using raw wool, she cards, spins, dyes and weaves, and the results are worthy of any luxury boutique. I had a lot of fun trying my hand on her simple loom.

The estancia is within easy reach of the town of Durazno, with its unique church, well-kept museum, and belle époque architecture. And if it's not only silencio that you are after, Durazno hosts a huge range of festivals throughout the year, including the Festival of Folklore in February and the hugely popular rock festival in October.

Paola Fornari
For International Living

P.S. You can spend the night in a double room at El Silencio for $30 (including breakfast) or in one of the dorms for around $10. There are three comfortable en suite bedrooms, and two dormitories, with five beds in each. To get there from Montevideo, take the Ruta 5 to Durazno, then follow the Ruta 14 towards Trinidad for 7 miles. The estancia is well-signposted on your left. There is a regular bus service from the Très Cruces bus terminal in Montevideo. For reservations e-mail silencio@adinet.com.uy

Related articles:

- The Lost Valley of Lunarej

- Tango in the Park

- Uruguay--The Owner's Manual: Save 20%

Related events:

- Paola will speak about settling in to a new life in Uruguay--everything from learning the language to exploring the country's most remote regions at the Live and Prosper in Uruguay Seminar in Montevideo, November 28-30. E-mail events@internationalliving.com for details.