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José Artigas: Uruguay's Greatest Hero

José Artigas and one of his constant companions
José Artigas and one of his constant companions, forever in residence
at Plaza Independencia.

International Living Postcards--your daily escape

Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Montevideo, Uruguay

Today is a national holiday in Uruguay, in celebration of the birth of the country's greatest hero, José Artigas, "the father of independence." In the center of Montevideo's most important square, Plaza Independencia, just outside the gate of the Ciudadela (the old city), stands the imposing 50-foot statue of Artigas mounted on his horse. Below street level, his remains are under 24-hour guard.

Artigas was born in 1764 to a wealthy family who were among the first settlers of Montevideo. As a young man he was a gaucho, spending most of his time on the family farms. He became adept at riding and handling weapons, skills he relied on when he joined the militia.

During colonization, the Banda Oriental del Uruguay (the Band East of the River Uruguay) was constantly caught up in rivalry between the Spanish and the Portuguese. The name of the area has stuck, and Uruguayans still refer to themselves as "Orientales." Artigas allied with the people of Spanish America in their struggle for freedom. He became the first leader of the Orientales, but was forced to take refuge in Paraguay when Buenos Aires refused to support him against attack from the Portuguese in Brazil in 1820.

He spent 30 years in exile in Paraguay. Although it was he who paved the way, he was not present when his country became independent in 1828.

This Robin Hood-type figure is greatly revered by his countrymen, who regularly quote him: "Mercy for the defeated," "Let the Orientals be as cultured as they are brave," and "Treat the injured, respect prisoners."

Artigas had three faithful companions: his horse, his cimarron dog, and his black servant, Ansina (who was advisor to, and biographer of Artigas).

Today schools and gaucho associations celebrate their hero's birthday with flag ceremonies, at which they sing the National Anthem and dance the national dance, the Pericón. The boys in gaucho gear, and the girls decked in long, bright skirts, wear cotton scarves around their necks, in the flag colors of pale blue and white. During the dance the couples perform an amusing repartee, and the dance ends with a flourish of scarves, forming a giant flag.

From this year, the day has been given a new name: "Nunca Más," meaning "Never Again," symbolizing the peaceful climate in the country. It's an undertaking that the struggles of the country's past will not return.

Paola Fornari
For International Living

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