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The Swiss Riviera for Less

Dear International Living Reader,

Overlooked by snow-capped mountains, the Swiss Riviera hugs the shores of Lac Leman, otherwise known as Lake Geneva. White sailboats on a vast expanse of blue water…vineyards and fields full of nodding golden sunflowers…quaint red-roofed villages and medieval waterfront castles. It's dazzling.

For the moment, I'm staying in Lausanne, an elegant, lively and extremely hilly city that climbs in tiers above the lake. And I do mean hilly--many of the streets are almost vertical.

I'm glad I invested in a Swiss Rail Pass--I can ride Lausanne's buses and funicular metro for nothing. At just over $200 for 8 days traveling, the Pass initially seems expensive, but I'd be spending a lot more than that if I had to buy individual tickets for the train journeys I've got planned. The Pass (see below if you need one) is also valid for other cities' transport systems as well as ferry boats on the lakes and post buses too.

But aside from transport, I'm surprised by how reasonable prices seem. I'm not saying they're cheap, but this part of Switzerland is certainly affordable for a vacation--if you're careful.

When it's time to eat, don't stay on the lakeshore--head up into Lausanne town instead. And don't go into a fancy restaurant--choose a brasserie, and one of the plats du jour, the daily specials. You can have an excellent meal for $11 to $12. At le Rond Point (a brasserie on the corner of avenues Jomini and les Bergieres near the Art Brut museum) I paid just over $11 for three big slices of beef, roasted to pink perfection in a mustard sauce. They were accompanied by a type of maize stuffed pancakes and a melange of fresh vegetables. Afterward, a raspberry sorbet with chunks of oranges and pineapple.

Another tip: The water is drinkable, so unless you want fizzy water, opt for a pichet de l'eau (a carafe of tap water). This comes free. And why pay expensive minibar charges in your hotel when you can buy a bottle of Badoit mineral water from the supermarket for $0.56?

Still on the drink theme, brasseries sell wine that's "ouverte". It's brand name (mostly French varieties) but is served in carafes. There's no getting away from the fact that wine here is expensive (especially if you choose a bottle that the waiter will open at your table), but $10.50 for a half liter carafe of rose de Provence won't break the bank.

Steenie Harvey,
Roving Euro-editor, International Living

P.S. I'll be keeping you updated on the rest of my trip through Switzerland all this week. Not in the main part of your daily postcard, but if you follow the links at the end for the rest of the week, you'll be able to read a new excerpt from my Swiss diary each day as an alternative read (see below for an example).


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