Celebrating the "Snail" of Calpe

by Veronica Shine
 

It's impossible not to enjoy Calpe, on Spain's Costa Blanca. How many areas can boast a history of Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Iberians, and Moors? Set against a backdrop of luxury hotels, a quaint old town, an active archaeology site, and a breathtaking landscape, Calpe is filled with folklore, good food, and excellent wine. Calpe manages that rare balance of a centuries-old past with the demands of modern-day tourism.

The dominating image, Penon de Ifach, splits the six-mile stretch of Calpe's coastline into two well-formed beaches. Declared by the Spanish government as a nature reserve, this rock towers 1,088 feet above the sea, and the views from the summit are spectacular.

Fine white sand

Calpe offers plenty to do. The beaches are widely known for their fine white sand and facilities, but if lying on a beach is not your thing, why not take a day cruise to nearby villages or stop by the docks when the fishing boats return every afternoon and watch the fish auctions? If you enjoy exploring on foot, there are many challenging walks, hikes, and climbs in the surrounding mountains, especially during the cooler weather.

The old town provides ample evidence of Calpe's rich history in murals, monuments, and museums, keeping alive the town's links with the past. The narrow medieval streets and walled city bring you back to a bygone age. The locals are proud of their town, welcoming to tourists, and eager to share their heritage.

Over 150 Festivals of Moors and Christians take place all over Spain, and Calpe is no exception. The town's own festivities run from October 19 to 23. This is an ideal time to visit as the weather is still warm, the summer crowds have subsided, and prices have dropped.

Cannons at noon

Parades and processions with colorful costumes are held each day, while street vendors serve churros (long skinny donuts) and bunuelos (fried pastries). Live music and dancing takes place at dusk in Plaza Major, and the fireworks displays each evening on the beach are a delight for the whole family. Bring your appetite because a giant paella is cooked in the town center to feed everyone.

But the real highlight is paying homage to "The Miracle" or "Caragol" that apparently took place in 1744. Appealing to all the senses, a mock battle commemorates this ancient local legend between Moors and Christians, setting Calpe's festival apart from others throughout Spain. Cannon fire at noon signals the start of the festivities.

The Snail resists

The story goes that the Moors planned a major attack on Calpe. The bells of the church were rung to remind Calpe residents that they must fight in the name of Christ. But the Moorish troops fought long and hard and forced the townspeople to retreat. Try as they might, however, they couldn't quite get the outer gate of the walled city to close. Only one man was able to heave closed the massive door: "Caragol" (snail), otherwise known as Jeronimo Ferrer Mulet, who sold snails on the seaside.

The Moors thought "Caragol" had supernatural powers and ran away, overcome by superstitious terror. The inhabitants of Calpe agreed that this victory was a "miracle" and vowed to give thanks each year to their savior on October 22. Since that day, the residents have kept their word with a series of holy processions, mock battles, and an exceptional fiesta.

Residents hang coats of arms and banners outside their houses, don traditional costumes, and dramatize various scenes in the streets. Fireworks, thundering guns, and clattering swords are part of both the parades and plays. The festival of Moors and Christians gives a good introduction to the origin of the names and customs you see and experience while visiting Calpe.

Getting to Calpe:
Calpe is 58 km from Alicante airport.

Where to stay:
Calpe offers the full range of accommodation from big, modern hotels, small "hostels", self catering apartments, and villas with pools.
Roca Esmeralda Spa, website: www.unitursa.com
Sol Ifach, website: www.solmelia.com
Hotel Bahia Calpe, website: www.bahiacalpe-hotel.com/
Self-catering: website: www.unitursa.com