Transylvania: Staking Out Vlad in Sighisoara by Steenie Harvey 
| The Scholars Stairs in Sighisoara were built in 1642. The covered stair passage protected students and churchgoers from the winter snows and rain. Photo courtesy of Steenie Harvey. |
Inside the citadel gate, I'm stopped by three men. Waving a fearsome-looking pike, one is clad in moleskin breeches. His smock-wearing companion beats a drum, while the third-almost dwarf-sized, wearing black velvet and a frilly ruff-capers around jabbering in various languages. Deep in Transylvania, Sighisoara has witnessed some grisly deeds over the centuries. Mercifully these aren't local crazies intent on restaging some gory execution. When one of them switches to English, I realize they're the town's official greeters. Notorious
Sighisoara was the birthplace of Vlad Tepes, or Vlad the Impaler. Inspiring Bram Stoker to create Count Dracula, this 15th-century warlord was notorious for cruel punishments. His signature method of retribution was impaling enemies and assorted wrongdoers on stakes. Resulting in an agonizing death, the stake got shoved into the victim's rear end. Most Romanians admire their infamous Impaler. One leaflet explains: "Vlad Tepes was a good king. To eradicate social problems and discourage his enemies, he used strange methods of killing people. Legend said that in his time, all fountains on the roads had gold cups and nobody dared steal them." Knowing that the punishment would likely involve sharp implements rammed into tender places, that's understandable. Compared to the circus outside Bran Castle, here Dracula silliness is fairly restrained. Deprived of plastic fangs, most Vampire Trail tourists make for the Torture Museum and Vlad's old house-now the Casa Dracul restaurant. Avoid it: You'll find better-value eats below the citadel. A UNESCO World Heritage site
Despite its Dracula connection, Sighisoara isn't yet tourist hell and you'll kick yourself if you don't go. Resembling a medieval stage set, this is the best-preserved of the Siebenbürgen, the German title for Transylvania's seven fortified "Saxon" towns founded by German settlers in the 12th century. On antique maps, Sighisoara is called Schässburg.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, its walls enclose ornate churches, cobbled lanes, and burghers' houses colored ochre and primrose. At the center is Citadel Square, former venue of executions and witch trials. Another highlight is the Scholars' Stairs. Dating from 1642, this covered stair-passage protected students from winter snows. Nine of Sighisoara's original 14 turrets remain, the star being the Clock Tower and its various figurines. At 6 a.m., a clockwork angel appears to mark the start of the working day. At 6 p.m., a night angel pops out carrying two candles-once the signal for goldsmiths, carpenters, and other guildsmen to stop their labors. And a lot more awaits you, including the Saturday market outside the walls, and Biserica Leprosilor, a 15th-century leper chapel across the river. P.S. Bad lads are often worryingly attractive. Near the Dominican Church, there's a statue of Vlad. If it's true to life, local wenches probably swooned. Long hair, sexy mustache-kind of like a 70s rock star… |
