The Revenge of Dom Pedro

International Living Postcards--your daily escape

Friday, July 7, 2006
Coimbra, Portugal

Dear International Living Reader,

Steps, steps, and more steps. All cobbled. All steep. I don't know about healthy minds, but Coimbra must have the world's fittest academic body.

Ninety minutes south of Porto, Coimbra was once Portugal's only university town. Its history as a seat of learning goes back to the 13th century. Whereas churches or fortresses generally crown other ancient walled towns, here the university is king of the hill. The campus gained some blocky, modern buildings last century, but its baroque masterpiece of an inner courtyard features a lofty belltower, intricately carved gateways, and mosaic-style roof tiles.

It is definitely worth the climb. And once you've wheezed your way up through Coimbra's medieval warren of patios and secret courtyards, you can visit a number of the university's buildings, such as the library, with its 250,000 books and sumptuous trompe l'oeil decorations.

From the university courtyard, look out across Coimbra's rooftops to the far bank of the Mondego River. From this vantage point, you'll see the old and new convents of Santa Clara, as well as a park known as the Quinta das Lagrimas (the Farm of Tears). Reminiscent of the ill-starred Romeo and Juliet, this was where Portugal's most tragic romance came to an end.

The lovers' names were Inez de Castro and Dom Pedro--Portugal's Crown Prince. To cut a long story about political intrigue short, Inez was fatally stabbed by her lover's enemies. When Dom Pedro took the throne in 1357, he saw that justice was done--he personally ripped out the hearts of two of the assassins. He also arranged for his beloved's body to be exhumed from the old Convent of Santa Clara. The royal court were ordered to pay homage--they all had to kiss the hand of Inez's decaying corpse.

Georgina Adams
For International Living