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Fatima, Portugal: Apparitions and conspiracy theories-but no bus timetables

by Steenie Harvey

Doesn't an "I" for Information on a sign suggest a tourist office, a likely place to find bus timetables? It does to me, but this isn't a normal tourist office. No timetables here: only prayer cards for pilgrims visiting Fatima's Basilica and Chapel of Apparitions. Prayers of the Angel and Prayers Taught by Our Lady ("save us from the fire of hell") are available in almost every major language.

In central Portugal, Fatima is one of the Catholic world's most sacred sanctuaries: The square fronting its Basilica is larger than St. Peter's in Rome and over four million people visit every year. What draws them is a series of events said to have happened in 1917.

The "Three Secrets of Fatima"

Three shepherd children-Lucia dos Santos, and her cousins Francisco and Jacinta Marto-claimed to have seen the Virgin Mary here. For those who believe their story, she made a number of appearances over the subsequent months, passing on to Lucia the so-called "Three Secrets of Fatima." These turned out to be a vision of hell, the rise of communism that could only be prevented by the consecration of Russia, and the assassination of a Pope.

Conspiracy theorists don't believe the Vatican divulged the real third secret allegedly passed on to Lucia. Their favorite theories center on one in which the earth is swallowed by tidal waves or the Virgin Mary declares herself as some kind of über-goddess.

The information lady can't help with bus times but insists on giving me a card to pray for the canonization of Francisco and Jacinta. Both died when they were children. Although I'm not the praying type, it's easier to accept it than argue. Lucia, who entered a convent, passed away in 2005 at the age of 97. Under Vatican rules, it's normally at least five years after death before sainthood is conferred.

The major pilgrim occasions are May 13 and October 13, but there's a daily program of sanctuary events from 7:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Although there aren't too many people at the Basilica today, Fatima's main street is buzzing. Countless shops and stalls cater to visitors' spiritual desires with votive candles, rosary beads, and all manner of religious paraphernalia. Piles and piles of other paraphernalia too…


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