First Days

After deciding to move to Nicaragua, I was faced with finding a place to live in the country. I put out feelers, asking two IL associates in Granada to look for a furnished apartment for me within a few blocks of the main square (at that time the only part of town I knew). The best I could tell them was that I would be returning for good sometime between the end of September and mid-October.

One of my contacts suggested I rent an empty house and furnish it myself. That seemed a little premature--and a big hassle. I insisted that the place be furnished and provide temporary space for the office as well.

Not long after my return to Baltimore, I received an e-mail from one of my scouts explaining that a one-bedroom furnished apartment was available in the area I had stipulated. I was given the e-mail address of the owner, an expat who has lived in the city for four years, and got in touch with him directly. The rent, he explained, was $350 a month. Sounded good, but I wanted to see the place before I committed myself. I told him I'd call and come by as soon as I arrived in Granada. OK, he told me, but the first person to arrive with one month's rent in hand would be the person to get the apartment. Fair enough.

I arrived back in Granada Oct. 13. The apartment was still available. The owner, Andy, agreed to meet me there. Well…he lives next-door. It didn't take long to decide that the $350 per month was very reasonable.

Except…no air conditioning. Not a big deal, I told myself.

Not when you consider the pluses. The apartment is only four blocks from the main square on a private and quiet street. It's one room (sectioned off into my bedroom, living room, and office), totaling about 600 square feet. Out the back, off the office area, is my covered yet outside kitchen, patio, and bathroom.

It's not uncommon here for the kitchen to be outside, because of the heat, and it didn't bother me that the shower is outside. If you've ever used an outdoor shower at the beach, you know that it can be very nice.

Beyond my kitchen is a beautiful garden with a tree that provides shade and at least 20 varieties of tropical plants.

Plus, my $350 per month includes maid service three times per week.

But there are other extras.

Like mosquitos. I mentioned these to Andy, who told me to spray down the bathroom after I shower and to spray the walls in the main room every couple of days. After a little while, he said, I won't notice them.

Off to the store I went for industrial-strength bug killer. Now my daily routine includes spraying once in the morning and once at night. Tomorrow I am going to replace my three kitchen and patio light bulbs with the yellow ones that help keep bugs away. Mosquitoes aren't my only roommates.

At first, as I said, I thought the lack of air conditioning wouldn't be a big deal and I'd adjust to the temperatures, which seemed to range from 72 to 90 degrees. I'd sleep with only a sheet and a ceiling fan and floor fan both blowing on me…and I'd be fine.

But it's gotten warmer, maybe 5 to 10 degrees, and I'm having trouble sleeping. I'm planning a trip to Managua to shop for a portable air-conditioning unit at the new Price Mart, where they sell for $529, which is a little cheaper than the States. I figure this will help both with the temperatures and the bugs. I'll be able to keep my windows closed at night.

The heat and the insects aside, I'm settling in comfortably. I think I'll stay put until the renovation of the colonial International Living purchased last month is finished (more on that later).

By the way, there are a number of furnished apartments available for rent in Granada right now, from $250 to $550 per month. The $250/month places are farther out from the main square. You can rent an unfurnished home for as little as $250 a month. If you're in the market, send me an e-mail. I'd be happy to put you in touch with the local owners: Nicaragua@InternationalLiving.com.

Gordon Nelson
For International Living in Nicaragua
E-mail: nicaragua@internationalliving.com

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