Renaissance Christmas

Dear International Living Reader,

Here in Italy, the Christmas season starts Dec. 8, with the celebration of the Immaculate Conception (or "l'Immacolata"). The decadent Renaissance beauty of Florence is transformed into something new when the lights and decorations go up; you may discover a piece of sculpture or a fresco on a façade you might otherwise never have noticed, because it was hidden in the shadows until now.

To see the best of Florence dressed for Christmas, walk down Via Tornabuoni past the windows and storefronts of the designer shops like Prada, Gucci, Cavalli, Versace, and Armani. Other streets in competition for best-decorated are Via Calzaioli and Borgo san Jacopo. As an extra incentive to buy, this year the Florentine shopkeepers are inaugurating a new trend---pre-Christmas Sales starting on Dec. 20.

This time of year, the cosmopolitan reality of Florence becomes even more evident. Under the imposing façade of the Church of Santa Croce, you might find gifts among the stands from all over Europe. In Piazza Santa Maria Novella, around the fountain, is the Scottish Festival and market, in case you decide you need a kilt or a plaid hat or maybe some marmalade while visiting Italy.

But what makes Florence so special at Christmas are the less commercial signs of the season. Every church has free choir and organ concerts--some of considerable quality--along with nativity scenes, many with pieces dating back to the Renaissance. The Uffizi has a special exhibition Dec. 12 to 31 called I Mai Visti (Never Seen Pieces), with 50 masterpieces not usually available to the public, ranging from Botticelli and Vasaro to Van der Wyden. And the Florentine Theatre Season is in full boom, with the Nutcracker, Barefoot in the Park, The Little Prince, and the Decameron among the most well known shows on offer.

Merry Christmas,

Carol Miligan
For International Living in Italy

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