Under the Tuscan Sun for Less Than $33,000

International Living Postcards--your daily escape

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Dear International Living Reader,

Few Italians would contemplate life in a rambling old farmhouse (or a rambling old anything). But to many foreign buyers it's this kind of property that represents the quintessential Italian dream. Most of us picture a stone-built farmhouse with several outbuildings, panoramic views, and a sizeable acreage of vineyards, sunflowers, and olive groves…a majestic lakefront villa…or a medieval palazzo with frescoed ceilings overlooking the piazza of a historic art town.

Italy abounds with farmhouses begging to be restored…but the reality may be considerably different from the pretty picture you have in mind. In Italy, "restoration" is rarely a simple matter involving fresh paint, sinking a swimming pool, and planting a few lavender bushes.

Think abandonment. Think of the days before electricity. Think of the time before toilets and bathrooms were considered essential. Some farmhouses are partially habitable, but don't include much in the way of modern comforts. While others are described as "structurally sound," all too often this means that they are shells. Pigeons nesting in the roof? There may not even be a roof. Many farmhouses are abject ruins requiring months of restoration work.

Don't expect to find a rambling old farmhouse that you could move straight into inside Tuscany's golden triangle (Florence, Pisa, and Siena) for bargain prices. This part of Italy has been extremely over-priced for a long time. These farmhouse properties can command sums of a million dollars and more. While all Italian properties generally have a built-in margin of around 10% for negotiation, some very serious money is needed for all kinds of homes in central and southern Tuscany.

Ahh, but look to northern Tuscany and prices drop dramatically.

A relatively unknown part of Tuscany, the Lunigiana borders Liguria to the west and Emilia Romagna to the north. Backdropped by the Apennines and Apuan Alps (whose white marble was hewn for Michelangelo), the Lunigiana's rolling landscape is sprinkled with medieval castles and fortified towns and hill villages set high above twisting valley roads. There are wonderful walks along ancient pilgrim paths and through chestnut woods…crystal clear rivers with waterfalls and natural rock pools for swimming abound. This is Tuscany without the crowds, where life continues to follow the traditional patterns of the season.

Although Tuscany is one of Italy's most explored regions, few foreigners know of Lunigiana. Even fewer have discovered its castles, country churches, and clusters of walled villages. But it's only a matter of time before word gets out that small stone-built houses in habitable condition still pop up in these villages for $60,000.

While you'd probably spend more than $50,000 on modernizing a typical $60,000 village house (plumbing and electricals are unlikely to meet the average buyer's approval), we must emphasize these houses have not fallen into rack and ruin. They're sound little homes, not wrecks. And other types of properties--farmhouses, shepherd's cottages, villas, even castles--offer equally good value.

Although Lunigiana has the hallmarks of a secret land, it isn't remote. It only takes half an hour to get here by train from the Ligurian seaport city and naval base of La Spezia. And La Spezia itself is only a hop, skip, and a jump away from Ligurian beauty spots such as the Gulf of Poets and the Cinque Terre's painted fishing villages. Owning a home in this corner of Tuscany means seaside pleasures are practically on the doorstep…without paying regular coastal prices.

Having scouted all over Italy, the L'Architrave agency, (and especially Lois Allan) was a real find. Most of its staff speaks English and can guide you through every stage of the purchase. The agency has its own network of architects, builders, and craftsmen that it works with regularly.

Lois Allan is English, but moved to this part of Italy when she was 10 weeks old. She has worked in Italian real estate for 25 years and has professional Italian qualifications. This is not always the case with expat agents. If you're not planning to live on your property, L'Architrave also offers a management service, and can pay bills on your behalf, organize repairs and pool and garden maintenance, etc.

For the moment, Lunigiana offers an incredible array of bargains that disappeared elsewhere in Tuscany decades ago. Right now, L'Architrave have old stone village houses for restoration for less than 26,000 euro ($32,500).

- From International Living's new Italy: The Owner's Manual

Editor's note: Who wouldn't want to live in Italy, Europe's most intriguing and seductive country? Just think of its warmth, style, and wonderful food…its excitable people and their zest for life…its art treasures and the architectural glories of its magnificent past… Even if you've never been there, Italy is one of those places that tugs at the heartstrings. Italy has a staggering amount to offer travelers…and residents. Romantic cities. Timeless hill towns. Snowy mountains, idyllic islands, and a rivetingly beautiful coastline. See for yourself.