The best views of Mount Etna by Keith Kellett 
| This fountain on the Piazza del Duomo is topped by an unusual centaur: female and two-legged. Photo courtesy of Keith Kellet. |
Most holidaymakers on cruises around the eastern Mediterranean call at the Sicilian port of Messina to climb Mount Etna. The town itself, following a succession of earthquakes, offers little to detain you. Alas, upon our arrival, the top of this still-active volcano (it last erupted in May) was covered by a hot weather haze, so we went instead to Taormina, a far more appealing town in its own right. Taormina is on a hillside overlooking the sea, founded around 750 BC by the ancient Greeks. The main attraction-apart from better views of Mount Etna-is the Greek theater just outside town, although the Romans adapted it later to suit their own style of entertainment. It's still used for the occasional performance today and is remarkably well preserved. What I found most impressive, however, was the unspoiled town center, especially what lies on the main street, between the Messina and the Catania Gates. The elaborate signs remain
It is at these gates that you can see the remains of the town's triple fortifications: The Messina Gate on the north side was last restored in the 19th century and looks toward Messina, while the Catania Gate, looking west to Catania, hasn't been touched since the mid-16th century. In this largely traffic-free street, traditional and souvenir shops rub shoulders with boutiques and designer clothes shops. But the town planners haven't seen any need to rip the heart out of the place in the search for modernity. The shutters and elaborate signs remain, and many buildings are still finished in the slightly peeling colored stucco that almost shouts "Italy." Glancing landward, narrow alleys and steep steps lead dramatically uphill, while outside the churches, the street opens out into a piazza with stunning views of the sea. Don't miss the Piazza del Duomo and its curiously topped fountain, made of local marble. If you get too hot with the sightseeing, you can always cool off on the beach (take the tramway down the steep hill to reach it). Tip: For the best views, go to the multi-story car park at the foot of the town (if you're driving, it's a good idea to leave your car here anyway, to avoid dealing with the tricky one-way system) and up to the roof. From here you can see a winding road leading up the hill, red roofed villas, and a glinting azure bay. And, if you're lucky, you may see the clear outline of Etna. |
