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Le Marche's magic
by John Szabo, Master Sommelier

Many Italians would struggle to describe the exact whereabouts of the little-known region of  Le Marche, pronounced "lay MARkay" (translates to The Marches), but in fact the capital city of Ancona sits right on the coast in the shadow of Monte Conero, about 200 miles from both Rome and Florence.

Despite its relative lack of notoriety, Le Marche has plenty to offer, and I predict this will be the next hot spot all'Italiana for the "in" traveler. Whether you want to soak up local history, art, and culture, hang out on the beach or discover local wines and food, there is enough to keep you entranced for years. And to top it all, Le Marche has some of the cleanest air and coastal waters in Europe due to its low levels of heavy industry. Here's a short snapshot of what makes this region magical…

Art historians should head to Urbino, a jewel of a Renaissance city developed under the glittering court of Federico di Montefeltro with a textbook Renaissance-style palazzo Ducale and a masterpiece of Urbino's most famous son, the high Renaissance painter Raffaello Sanzio, better known as Raphael. Though he built his fame in Rome, one of his finest paintings, La Muta (The Silent One) is on display here.

Sun seekers will want to head to one of the seaside resorts that dot the coast from pesaro in the north down to the border with Abruzzo in the south. If you avoid the high season from mid-July to the last week of August, you will still enjoy fine weather and far fewer crowds than generally encountered on the Mediterranean side of the peninsula. San Benedetto and neighboring community Grottamare in the south have stunning, fine sand beaches and warm, shallow waters. It is also your best bet for lively nightlife during the tourist season. Some of the most dramatic seaside scenery of the Adriatic can be found on the so-called Riviera del Conero, the section of coastline beneath the towering limestone peak of Monte Conero just south of Ancona. In the town of portonovo, secluded rocky coves and thin beaches drop off more steeply into the blue-green waters of the Adriatic Sea.

With abundant sunshine, soft sand, crystal clear waters and clean air, hilltop towns and wild mountains, deep cultural patrimony and a rich tradition of food and wine, Le Marche is poised to be a high-profile destination in years to come. For those who fall in love with the area, you'll be pleased to know that real estate prices are a fraction of those in more famous neighboring regions. For example, a three-bedroom country home, complete with vegetable garden, large kitchen hearth, and full amenities, within a short drive from the sea, can be had for less than $90,000. Now that's the magic of real Italy.


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