Where to Find Ancient Ireland 
* You can see why the locals prefer to keep this breathtaking view a secret
Read more about Ireland in International Living Postcards--your daily escape
Monday, Sept. 10, 2007
Dingle (An Daingean), Ireland Dunbeg Fort is almost impossible to find without a detailed map of County Kerry or a grasp of the Irish language. One of the locals who gave us directions in Ventry told us the fort is not signposted to discourage tourists from visiting this dangerous cliff-side location. The little Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) village of Ventry, which lies a few miles past Dingle town, comprises of a post office/shop and a pub. Walking along the fuchsia-lined road we reached the Stonehouse Cottage, a beautiful country restaurant made entirely from stone (including the roof). One of our group was on an archaeological expedition of the Dingle peninsula. Despite our pleadings to start the picnic, she told us we would have to wait until she had jumped the "trespassers could be shot, attacked by 'dangerous' animals or a caught in a trap" sign and explored an old well belonging to early Christian monks before we could eat. We couldn't wait--we had spent hours searching for this place, and hunger outweighed loyalty to our friend. The picnic was opened, eaten, and enjoyed. Before you see Dunbeg Fort, the first thing you notice is the view. From the giant cliff-top hundreds of feet high you can see many cliffs of equal splendour jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean, the waves crashing below. Flocks of sheep graze high on the surrounding green fields which resembles an enormous patchwork quilt. The invigorating sea mist turns the land across Dingle bay into hazy slopes. The fort, built around 800 B.C., is thought to be used as a defence area. Inside the fort is a clochan (stone hut). When we looked through the cracks on the ground, we could see a secret passageway, but couldn't find the entrance. We figured it had eroded from the cliff-side along with the other half of the fort. Dingle, with its protected heritage sites untouched since before 800 B.C., is a haven for an archaeologist. It's easy for the untrained eye to explore the restored sites, but with a little imagination and a good guide, the unpreserved sites are a treat. Even though these sites are protected, the land is owned by farmers who are not happy with trespassing tourists--due to the Occupier's Liability Act, which holds the land owner responsible for injury on his land, although mitigated if a warning is stated at the gate. After viewing a few sites that looked like piles of rocks to us (but made sense to our archaeologist friend), we were stopped at the 8th-century Riasc Monastery. We were told that it had been preserved (or "tampered with," from an archaeologist's point of view) but we were still impressed by the infamous Riasc Pillar Stone--a Celtic standing stone with a Maltese-style cross carving dating back to 1,000 B.C. Winding around narrow country roads--a scenery of flat green fields, the Three Sisters mountain peaks, solitary trees, and nothing but the sound of tractors and the smell of honeysuckle--we reached Kilmalkedar Church, the most important Early Christian site on the peninsula. Along with the Romanesque church were different types of tombstone, from simple uncarved crosses to large intricately carved slabs such as sundials with segments marked to divide the monastic day. With so many different ruins in a well preserved state, you could spend a hours looking around. But we had enough for one day…the lively pubs of An Daingean were calling… Elaine Cooney
For International Living P.S. The name "Dingle" is currently under dispute. An Daingean (the Irish name) was changed to Dingle 700 years ago during the British occupation of Ireland--a name that has been recognised since by the masses of tourists that visit the peninsula. During the 1970s an order was made by the Minister for the Environment to remove all English signposts from the Gaeltacht regions (Dingle is the largest Gaeltacht in Ireland). This order was ignored until the controversial Minister Eamon O' Cuiv enforced it in 2005, much to the outrage of the locals. On the way to Dingle, you will see the An Daingean signposts have been spray-painted over with "Dingle" and a Hollywood style sign spells out Dingle on the way into the town--so you'll have no problem finding your way here. Related articles: - Welcome to Ireland
- Christmas on the Emerald Isle Related events: - The Ultimate Event II, Oct. 24-27, Panama City, will tell you everything you need to know about living in Ireland | 
