Barging on the River Barrow by Len Galvin
| The Salmon, on the River Barrow, the boat we called home for a week as we navigated one of Ireland's most picturesque rivers. Photo courtesy of Len Galvin. |
A wide berth, a shallow draft, lock racks, and bilge pumps… There was a time I couldn't tell one end of a barge from the other. Now, I'm an expert (or at least, I can talk like one). The River Barrow is thought, by those who should know, to be the most picturesque navigable river in Ireland…and, therefore, in Europe.
River cruising is a popular holiday in Ireland, but the slower (and quieter) barge, or narrowboat, is a far better way to explore these charming waterways. Aboard a barge, you can throw a line around any riverside tree, and spend the night wherever you want (a cruiser can only dock at specific places), and venture into shallower waters than the deep-bottomed cruisers could ever navigate. Timid Fish
We took An Bradán ("The Salmon," pictured here) from the 12th-century abbey town of Graignamanagh to the colorful town of Leighlinbridge, and back down to the tiny medieval village of St. Mullins, passing through dozens of black and white wooden lock gates. In a car, this journey would take you about an hour. On the barge, it took us a week, and felt like we'd been on vacation for six months. My only complaint is the too-timid fish on this stretch of river-despite bringing two good rods, I caught nothing. But it didn't matter. Although the galley is sufficient for cooking, you'll find plenty of good restaurants and food-serving pubs along the Barrow; short a distance as we covered, we still passed 43 pubs, some doubling as provisions stores, hardware suppliers, and even a funeral director's premises. The Barrow has several barge hire companies, including Barrowline Cruises (www.barrowline.ie) and Canalways Ireland (www.canalways.ie). When booking, ask for an itinerary of recommended berths, depending on your interests-golf…fishing…horse riding…hiking…etc. Barge hire for a week during this time of year costs from $1,200 to $1,800 in high season. You'll need a minimum crew of two to navigate the locks (but lock keepers are on hand to help, if needed). |
