The best bars in Waterford
by Leigh Fergus

Ireland without beer is like France without wine-bars are essential to understanding something of the local culture. Finding the most interesting bars was not an easy task, however, as Waterford is the oldest town in Ireland, and the telephone directory entries for pubs run to several pages. Following the advice of local entrepreneur Dave White and my colleagues, I tracked down probably the five best pubs in town. The criteria are that the pubs serve good Guinness (both the original bottled variety and draught); are removed from the tourist trail; and attract a mixed local crowd.

Anyone for squash?

1. Downes' Bar, Thomas Street; tel. (051)874-118. Although the Guinness is good here, it's the whiskey you should try. Downes' N°. 9 to be precise. One of the few remaining pubs to blend its own tipple, it used to have a range of 200 whiskeys. N°. 9, the story goes, was the most popular with the local clergy, and is the last to survive-bottles are sold to take out for 29.50 euro ($39). This pub was founded in the late 1700s and has other curiosities, including an old stone well partitioned off in one corner, a squash court, and a snooker table. The owner, John de Bromhead, is not fond of cell phones.

2. T&H Doolans, George's Street, tel. (051)841-504. Despite being the oldest pub in town-it's been serving beer for more than 300 years-this establishment has escaped the notice of the coach tours. The low yellowing ceilings, fireplace, dim lighting, and the warren of wooden partitions and cubbyholes have not changed since it opened. The bar staff are friendly and live music is put on most nights. From Easter to October in the evenings, you can try Irish food while you enjoy the music.

3. The Woodman, 43 John Street, tel. (051)858-130. This is a narrow, quiet bar with no pretension in contrast with the goings-on at Ruby's nightclub next door (a communicating door brings the music closer). Offering a plain and simple interior with comfy seating and wood décor, come for a chat with a friend, a pint or two, and a catch-up of the football or rugby matches in the evening. The bar staff will talk if you like, or leave you alone if you want to read the paper.

4. The Three Shippes, William Street. The three ships are a symbol of Waterford's historic maritime importance, and this pub is decorated with memorabilia: as you leave, look for the metal sign warning of a fine of one penny for failing "to fasten the gate" -and make sure you close the door. The high ceilings and seating around the walls make this bar feel larger than it is.

Geoff's for good beer and craic

5. Geoff's, John Street. One of the largest bars in Waterford, Geoff's has made a name for itself for pulling the best pint in town-Geoff Power is fanatical about keeping the pipes clean and that may be part of his secret. This bar attracts crowds almost every night, young and old, for the beer and the music, but has no plasma screens for sports fans. The atmosphere is friendly and casual, and bar food is served.