Discovering the discreet charm of Hamburg by Sven Lorenz Despite being a city of 1.5 million, Hamburg doesn't have a dedicated English-language guide in print. In terms of attractions, however, it's on a par with some of its more famous counterparts in Europe. Internationally minded 
| Photo courtesy of www.istockphoto.com
by Sven Lorenz |
Come for a weekend and you'll find yourself in a bustling place that, for its architecture and weather, can best be compared with London. Hamburg is the most internationally minded of German cities, due to its century-long position as a port city, where influences from all over the world meet. A tour of the Speicherstadt (the old harbor warehouse area) is recommended-rows of historic, red-brick warehouses line a number of canals connected to the rest of the port. In the old days, tea, coffee, and spices from colonial outposts were loaded onto smaller ships that maneuvered the precious wares to the owners' warehouses, where they were then hoisted up.
While not a political capital, Hamburg is certainly a financial one. With the sole exception of London, it has more millionaires than any other European city. The local purchasing power has helped to create a diverse selection of restaurants, bars, and hotels. You can get a grip on Hamburg's future by strolling past the Hafencity visitor center (see "Hamburg of the Future" sidebar). Or, you can simply indulge in the endless temptations that this vastly underappreciated European city has to offer. Hamburg: raw facts Hamburg is the seventh largest city in the European Union and the largest city that is not a capital. Hamburg sits in a strategic spot where two smaller rivers flow into the much larger Elbe river, which in turns then flows into the North Sea, making Hamburg a city built on water. Its most exciting feature is its bridges: Thanks to its many canals, Hamburg's 2,500 bridges by far out-number the combined total of bridges of Amsterdam (1,200) and Venice (400).
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Fresh coffee in the oldest café
For a sense of history, visit the café Die Rösterei (Mönckebergstrasse 7, tel. +49 (0) 40-3039-3735) in Hamburg's main shopping street. Opened in 1676, it's probably one of Europe's oldest cafés. Courtesy of an old Hamburg coffee dynasty, you can taste coffees from around the world here, freshly roasted on a daily basis, and certainly as good as those in France. A stunning interior is what sets the café in Literaturhaus apart (Schwanenwik 38, tel. +49 (0) 40-220-1300). Nestled right next to the inner city Alster lake that gives Hamburg such a unique feel, this is where the local bourgeoisie meet on Sunday mornings for extensive brunching. Think stucco decorations, marble columns, and ceiling paintings. The café is actually located in what used to be a ballroom. Be sure to reserve your table here in advance.
Hamburg of the future What will most likely catapult Hamburg into the media during the years to come is the ongoing revival of the old harbor area. The Hafencity project (Am Sandtorkai 30, tel. +49 (0) 40-3690-1799; website: www.hafencity.com) is one that few even within Germany have heard of, but it's one of the most remarkable property projects in all of Europe. A 155-hectare area in Hamburg's historic harbor is to be transformed into a modern, mixed area with residential property, retail space, offices, public spaces, and cultural locations. The construction project will increase the size of Hamburg's city center by 40%. It can best be compared to London's Docklands project. Having been started in earnest in 2001, the area will see ongoing construction until 2025. Although parts of it are actually already finished, the late 2009 opening of the waterfront opera building will certainly attract the most international attention. |
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