A Village in the Vineyards
by Pam Mandel 
| Grosskarlbach is at the northern end of the German 'Weinstrasse' or wine route, a tranquil area in Bavaria to explore at a leisurely pace.
Photo courtesy of istockphoto.com |
We call it, affectionately, Big Charles Creek. That's the literal translation of Grosskarlbach, the name of a tiny town of 1,200 in the upper Pfalz, Germany. Don't let the town's size mislead you, though, as there's plenty to offer in this medieval village. From grain to grape At one time there were seven mills here but the surrounding fields have gone from grain to grapes in the last 400 years, with several wineries downtown-and a few places that make sparkling wine, too. An antique shop, boutique hotels, and, of course, exceptional restaurants are present, as is the Palatina Ceramics factory where you can get tableware, garden pots, and mosaic-style bistro tabletops. And one of Germany's top restaurants is tucked away in the narrow streets. Karlbach is located in an immaculately restored 1700s gutshof. The best way to translate this term might be "manor house"-where the lord of the land lived. His fine horses may have been stabled in this dry courtyard while his workers struggled with reluctant donkeys and leaky roofs. Today, the courtyard is spanned by a modern steel and glass roof. Grosskarlbach takes advantage of the appeal of this protection every summer with a jazz festival. This is a small town with a big idea: the smallest town in the world to host a jazz festival. The "Long Nights of Jazz" takes place every year on July 1 and there are culinary delights to be had in the restaurants and, naturally, plenty of excellent local wine. A personalized dinner
Tips for touring the Pfalz How: Traveling the weinstrasse (wine route) is best done slowly. A car is ideal because you'll have a place to stow those crates of wine, but a bicycle is also pleasant. Picnic spots appear around every bend, in town squares or little parks on the edge of the vineyards.
When: In spring the almond trees are in bloom and the roads along the vineyards are decked in pink flowers. Summer is perfect for cycle touring, outdoor theater, and music. Fall is harvest time with the leaves changing color, and it's festival season. Winter is cozy and quiet, with locals having plenty of time to talk, the crowds gone, the vines resting for the new season. |
But we're here on a winter's night, so we're inside in a cozy, wood-paneled room. Rather than ask us what we'd like, our attentive waitress says, "What can we cook for you tonight?" I'm disarmed by the personalization of our dinner, but other than one couple, we're the only people in the place, so it seems right. The handwritten menu is limited but specialized. There's highland beef and fish from Brittany, and "schwarzwurzel" soup. Schwarzwurzel is black salsify, a root vegetable that's difficult to prepare, and rarely available fresh-not to be passed up if you get the chance to try it. The taste is subtle, oyster-like. Our glasses are kept full even as our plates are emptied. The spelt risotto is too rich for me to finish and I am reluctantly forced to forgo dessert. After dinner we stroll the silent streets of Grosskarlbach. Lace curtains are elegant cutouts, backlit and framed by painted shutters. The river runs through town, singing a good night song that's hundreds of years old. IL |
