Chablis-Quality not quantity
by Leigh Fergus 
| This solid wooden wine press in Chablis was made in the 13th century and is cranked back into action
once a year. Photo courtesy of P.S. |
It's hard to imagine that the world's total production of Chablis is concentrated in the vineyards around the ancient village of Chablis in Burgundy. Yet, thanks to the rarity of Kimmeridgian soil, a stony cocktail of limestone and fossilized oyster shells that only crops up here and in the UK village of Kimmeridge, it's the one place in the world with the right terroir and climate to turn the chardonnay grape into this unique white wine. Once upon a time…
The story goes that monks from Tours in the Loire valley fled cross-country to the abbey of St. Germain in Auxerre, Burgundy escaping the Norman invaders in the ninth century. They brought with them little more than the relics of St. Martin and a few chardonnay vines. Miraculously, the vines survived and even thrived on the slopes facing the Serein river, the site of the current Grands Crus. The famous wine followed. Charles the Bald then donated the churches of Chablis and St. Loup monastery in 867 to the Cistercian canon and monks of Tours who settled here and carried on the winemaking tradition.
A wine that keeps well
Choice Chablis
Chablis is closer in taste to champagne without the bubbles than its sister burgundies. My favorite was Les Blanchots Grand Cru 2003 from the Laroche estate but, at 39 euro a bottle, it's not for everyday drinking: pale straw in color, an elegant bouquet hinting of fresh hay and vanilla, fragrant fruity and mineral notes in the mouth, and a smooth silky feel. Pure delight. For a more affordable glass, try the junior appellation Petit Chablis-less flinty but still crisp, offering less complexity-and easy to drink. Try the Domaine du Chardonnay's at just less than 9 euro, or the Laroche Petit Chablis 2005 for 8.25 euro. |
While all around were planted ordinary cépages, easy to turn into basic table wines, the winemakers of Chablis focused on making a clear mineral wine that kept well. By the 18th century, Chablis had established itself as a name for quality throughout France.
Only the chardonnay vines in an area roughly 12 miles by nine along the Serein river can produce this wine-that's less than 17,000 acres. And only seven named vineyards have Chablis Grand Cru status: Les Blanchots, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Les Preuses, Valmur, and Vaudésir. The old lady of the wine world
Despite the Huguenot attacks, the dismantling of church property during the French revolution, and the deadly disease of phylloxera, the wine has survived and is now world famous. To try Chablis, just look around the village and take your pick of venues. Most wine shops offer advice and information in English. The original St. Martin estate is now owned by the Laroche group. If you sign up for a tasting, you may even get a tour of the 13th-century wooden wine press in the Obédiencerie, part of the monastery, hidden away in a little backstreet. Not only is it one of the few remaining presses of the period, but it actually still functions. This grand old lady of the wine world is brought back to life once a year for a harvest festival celebration. Domaine Laroche, 22 rue Louis Bro; tel. 03 8642-8928
Domaine Christian Begue, 14 ter, avenue J. Jaurès; tel. 03 8642-1871
Pascal Bouchard, route d'Auxerre et 5 bis rue Porte-Noël; tel. 03 8642-1864 |
