The Storybook villages of Alsace by Neil P Harkins 
| Heads up to admire some of Colmar's têtes. Photo courtesy of Neil Harkin. |
On every visit to France, the Alsace-Lorraine region lures us with its delicious local wines, hearty meals (thanks to its Germanic past), friendly people happy to speak either French or German, and well-preserved, pastel-painted medieval and Renaissance villages. Alsace-Lorraine is divided into five départements, and our favorite is the Haut-Rhin, bordered on the east by the Rhine river and Germany's Black Forest. Here's our pick of the best. Colmar, the Haut-Rhin's main town, is a good place to start. Return to the 16th century here while meandering along the lanes of colorful half-timbered houses, shops, and restaurants. Be sure to see the decorated façades of the Koifhüs, Maison des Têtes, and Maison Pfister. Simple to navigate, Colmar has ample parking, and the historic Vieille Ville, predominantly a pedestrian zone, is easily explored. In Petite Venise (Little Venice) flow the canals once used by the wine merchants to transport their wares. Leisurely boat trips are offered from the Quartier des Tanneurs. Side Trips Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg
An imposing, restored medieval castle high atop a hill. Tours every day except January 1, May 1, and December 25. (19 miles from Colmar, north of Saint-Hippolyte, website: www.Haut-Koenigsbourg.com) Jardins des Papillons
Wander among exotic butterflies in an enclosed environment. Open April through October. (Hunawihr, between Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé, website: www.JardinsDesPapillons.fr) Parc des Cigognes
Stork breeding park and wildlife preserve. Open March through mid-November. (Hunawihr, between Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé, website: www.Cigogne-Loutre.com) |
A few miles south of Colmar is the tiny ancient village of Eguisheim, whose geranium-adorned houses with exposed beams and cobblestone passages are laid out in three concentric circles around a unique octagonal feudal castle and Renaissance fountain. Eguisheim has even more of a fairytale feel in the evening when lit by street lanterns. The Romans started making wine here in the 4th century, and vineyards still surround the village. Signs indicating Caves and Dégustation point the way to where you can sample the grands crus (fine wine) in several vintner-owned courtyards. For a typical meal, try the regional dish of Choucroute (a mixture of sauerkraut, boiled potatoes, sausage, and ham.) Best time to visit? The fourth weekend of August for the Wine Growers' Festival, or late spring, to see storks nesting on the rooftops.
Northwest of Colmar is the walled village of Riquewihr, and where the wall ends, flower-trimmed vineyards begin. Make sure you bring plenty of film or digital memory for your camera to snap the quiet private courtyards, ancient watchtowers, ramparts, and manicured gardens. For history buffs, the village has a postal history museum, and the Tour des Voleurs museum in the upper part of town features a medieval torture chamber.
Three miles northeast of Riquewihr lies the equally photogenic village of Ribeauvillé. Although wine is important here too, this village is known for Kougelhopf, a local almond-flavored cake: The restaurant within the Pfifferhüs is a good place to try this and other local specialties. On top of a hill, beyond the vineyards, three ruined 12th- and 13th-century castles watch over the village and offer an excellent panorama. A Minstrels Festival is held here on the first Sunday of September.
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