Sounds of Paris

Friday, July 22, 2005
Paris, France

Paris can be characterized not only by its
monuments or the sweet smell wafting from
bakeries, but also by distinctively Parisian
street sounds.

Dear International Living Reader,

As a former American expat in Paris, I knew returning to the city for the summer would feel a bit like coming home. The sights I remembered, of course--the Luxembourg Gardens, Notre Dame, the pretty public squares scattered throughout the city. Even the smells had remained vivid, especially the wondrously decadent odor that hovers around Parisian boulangeries. But the sounds…I had forgotten the sounds.

Life in Paris takes place mostly in the street, so most of the sounds that characterize Paris are found there, too. There are the impatient klaxons of zippy French minicars and the screeches of speeding motorcycles--and the French police siren, a two-tone weee-waaw-weee-waaw, solemn and dignified as compared to its frenetic American cousin. And café life produces another set of distinctive sounds in the summer, when windows are open, terraces uncovered, and chairs and tables set forth on the sidewalks. In warm weather, it's impossible to walk through the city without hearing the tinkling of wine glasses and accompanying laughter.

But street sounds are common to most European cities. Sounds that qualify as authentically Parisian are a little less obvious. For instance, if you take a taxi or a shuttle from the airport, chances are you will be treated to an audience of Chérie FM, the sappy radio station featuring lovesick French music from the 70s. No one actually listens to the station at home, but cabbies and chauffeurs famously (and inexplicably) keep their radios set to Chérie FM.

The Parisian métro system has its own music--the whir of passing train cars, the horn that blares just before the doors close. But my favorite is only on line 4, which goes to St Germain. Listen closely as the doors close; there is a tiny "ping" of a bell that sounds just before the train lurches towards the next station.

Then there is the "sound" of quiet, the sort of meditative calm only Paris seems to inspire. On Sunday, when offices and shops are closed, the quiet is thick and lazy, broken at times by church bells tolling, or by the conversation of Parisians out for an afternoon walk. It's there at night, too, after the last café closes. While the city sleeps, the few remaining sounds--the clicking heels of returning partygoers, an occasional laugh or whistle--echo hauntingly across the cobblestoned streets.

The next time you're in Paris, you won't have trouble remembering to notice the beauty around you, or to touch and taste and smell the city's many delights. That's inevitable. But even as your senses are overloaded, don't forget to practice the finer art of listening.

Jennifer Westerfield
For International Living

P.S. If you find yourself up at dawn, suffering from jet lag, you may be treated to the unmistakable sounds of the petits hommes verts--the city's water-wielding cleaning squad. Every morning, these men ride around the city in little green machines, spraying high-pressure water from little green hoses that washes away the previous day's déchets. So no, the water sounds you hear are not those of strangely localized rain, but rather the welcome sounds of Paris's own washing-up.

Terms to note:

* klaxon (klac-sohn): car horn
* petits hommes verts (puhteez um vehr): literally, "little green men," a euphemism for Paris's excellent sanitary services
* déchets (day-shay): garbage

Editor's Note: If you would like to receive more postcards about Paris--like this one--sign up for Postcards From Paris, the newest International Living e-letter. Each day, our editors in this city will send you a picture postcard…and a few lines to remind you of the best of la vie parisienne. No tourist fare here. New restaurants…the best restaurants…the ones even your French friends may never have heard of. The best food, the best wine, the best sights…tips on savoring all this city has to offer…the best of the world's best city…the best time of your life. And, best of all, it's free. Sign up here today.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
France: further resources
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

* Paris is the undisputed capital of romance and the epitome of urban chic. Maybe you've been dreaming of a home somewhere in its historic streets, but thought it was too unaffordable? Not at all. Some Parisian neighborhoods are undeniably expensive, but others offer good value for your money. International Living's new France: The Owner's Manual will give you the flavor of each arrondissement…as well as the lowdown on which districts offer the best values.

* "No, you're not dreaming. This is France, and that is a Statue of Liberty you're seeing. Last summer, in Colmar, Alsace, another Statue of Liberty was erected and dedicated here…"

* You're dreaming of a move to France…strolls along the Seine…lazy days on the Côte d'Azur…skiing in the Alps. But between you and your dream looms a bureaucratic mountain of visa, job, money, and health issues. Fear not: other expats have made the leap before you, and IL's Working and Living in France: The Ins and Outs will demonstrate how you can do it, too--step by step, option by option, dollar by dollar, so that you can realize your dream and fully enjoy the elegance and exuberance of this delicious country.

* "Most villages in France have an 'empty attic' sale at some point during the summer, where you can find excellent bargains…"

FREE e-letter from the editors of International Living International Living's one-of-a-kind e-letter service will show you how to take advantage of the best opportunities on offer the world over for traveling better, retiring well, living the life of your dreams, and investing for serious returns. Find out how to double your retirement resources…discover countries where you can live or retire in comfort and style on $1,500 per month…position yourself in emerging markets poised for growth… live a jet-set lifestyle no matter what your budget… Sign up for IL Postcards FREE daily e-letter.  International Living will never sell, rent or otherwise abuse your email address. It will be used solely for the purpose of sending you the IL Postcards E-Letter and opportunities related to International Living. Should you wish to unsubscribe at any time, instructions are included with each email for immediate removal from the IL E-Letter subscriber file.