Attacking Provins in the 21st Century

International Living Postcards--Sunday Edition

Sunday, March 25, 2007
Provins, France

In the 12th century, the counts of Champagne dispatched word worldwide that they would guarantee safe passage to any merchants traveling to their Champagne Fairs. This safeguard, given at a time when long-distance travel was arduous and dangerous, coupled with the strategic position of the region, situated between both the North Sea and Mediterranean ports and Eastern Europe, led to fantastic growth for these trade fairs, which became the most important in Europe in their day. The town of Provins, in particular, developed into an international hub, with 20 roads converging into it, all patrolled by the counts' guardsmen.

The counts of Provins grew enormously wealthy, thanks to these annual wholesale trading events, as did the town's merchants, who built large and comfortable half-timbered houses in the shadow of Caesar's Tower (reputedly built by Caesar but, in fact, dating to the early 12th century), an imposing reminder of the counts' money and power. In the 13th century, these counts further reinforced their position by building stone walls providing eight miles of protection for the good people of little Provins.

The entire town is a showcase of medieval architecture, military, religious, and civil, with more than 50 listed monuments.

Yet you've probably never heard of it. I hadn't. As other trade routes opened up, Provins became less important as a point on the world map. Today, but 2,000 people live here, and the town outside the medieval quarter is unimpressive. Walking from the train station through modern Provins (that is, the town of the last 500 years), we passed discount clothing stores and a Saturday morning market where you could shop for plastic kitchen containers and mops and began to wonder about the wisdom of having invested in the hour-and-a-half train ride from Paris to get here.

As we followed the signs straight uphill to the Ville Haute, the medieval town quarter, still protected to the north and west by its great walls, we got the point. City scouts in the Middle Ages chose the site well. Any attacking army would have been well worn out by the time it made its way in full battle gear to the top of this mountain and the well-fortified people of medieval Provins. In 21st-century tourist terms, this translates t Great view.

You can see everything there is to see in an afternoon--le Tour de Cesar…le Grange aux Dimes (that is, 13th-century covered market)…St. Quiriace Church…and the underground galleries. These last were dug as a quarry to extract the special fuller's earth used by the wool merchants to degrease their cloth. The wool trade was so enormous and the deep blue-black Provins wool so in demand that these tunnels grew big. Once quarried, this maze beneath town was converted to storerooms for the fairs and meeting places for the area's freemasons.

Provins is an easy day trip from Paris; trains run regularly from Gare d'Est. And maybe there's no reason to stick around longer. But we stayed the night, in part out of respect for the town's history, but also to savor the experience. Even midwinter, the medieval square, lit by lamplight, grew cozy after dark. From the few restaurants surrounding it, we chose one offering live music and fresh seafood. In season, I understand, Provins is crowded with Euro-tourists. We Americans may never have heard of the place, but French, German, and British travelers seek it out. This time of year, though, after dinner, we had the square and the stars above it to ourselves. Sunday morning, we were alone for our sunrise walk along the ramparts.

Kathleen Peddicord
Publisher, International Living

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P.S. One-time Count of Champagne Thibaud IV brought the Damascus rose back to Provins during the Crusades. Edmund of Lancaster incorporated the red rose into his emblem. A century-and-a-half later, it was this flower that triumphed over the white rose of York in the War of the Roses.

P.P.S. I wouldn't have found Provins on my own. Euro-insider Leigh Fergus in our Paris office turned me onto the village. I finally thought to turn to her after 20 minutes of surfing the net and consulting the guidebooks got me no closer to a unique and romantic weekend getaway destination within easy commute of the French capital. "I don't want Fontainebleau, Normandy, or Giverny," I told Leigh. She replied immediately with Provins. Leigh shares these insider recommendations weekly with readers of "The European" e-letter. Get yourself on the list. It's free.