Europe's Hidden Wineries,
Biggest Port, and Good Value Plastic Surgery
The European
Vol. 1. Issue no. 46
October 23, 2007
Paris, France 
| You don't need to spend big bucks in Europe-many of the sights are free, including the Laurenskerk and this weekly stamp market in Rotterdam. Find out what else is for free when you visit Amsterdam's kid brother. Photo courtesy of Mirjam Pronk |
Leaves are already rust, chestnut, or flame-red now, and from London to Berlin northern Europeans are getting out their sweaters and scarves, and making the most of the bright crisp weather for long walks.
I'm looking forward to tasting the first wines of the year. The Beaujolais Nouveau Festival is not for another few weeks but, to get you in the mood this week, read on to find out about the ancient art of winemaking in eastern Europe and discover the micro-world of a famous white wine here in France. And you'll also see what's for free in a busy cruise port in the Netherlands. Santé! Bests, Leigh Fergus
Editor, The European
Where to find Churchill's favorite wine by Leah Larkin Bulgarian wine may not be as well known as wines from France and Italy, yet Winston Churchill was a fan. He ordered 500 liters of the country's melnik wine every year, made from the country's very own grape, the broad leaf melnik. And Melnik is also the name of Bulgaria's smallest town, a popular tourist destination with Revival period houses surrounded by dramatic sand cliffs in odd forms. An ancient art
Winemaking in Bulgaria is no recent process, but rather dates back to the Thracians, before the Romans. In the Middle Ages, monks produced wine and built wine cellars in the cold crypts of their monasteries for storage. Despite strict Islamic laws, the wine tradition survived during the ruling of the Ottoman Empire. By the beginning of the 20th century, new ways of vine cultivation and production were developed, resulting in quality wines. Those wines were reserved for the Soviet elite during the "Iron Curtain" years when all wineries were taken over by the state and limited quantities of the best wine were exported to the Soviet Union. Limited edition
Mainly poor quality table wines were exported to Germany where the wine quickly gained a bad reputation. During the Gorbachev era, production was limited as part of the former Soviet leader's crack down against alcoholism. Today the wineries are back in private hands, production is booming, and the goal is to produce quality wines.
Bulgaria has five wine regions: northern, eastern, sub Balkan, southern, and southwestern. Melnik is in the southwest region, known for its Mediterranean climate. Melnik wines
After a tour of the town, we tried several local wines at the nearby Damianitza winery, including one called "No Man's Land." This comes from grapes now grown in the border territory between Greece and Bulgaria, once an area of fences and soldiers between the two worlds of socialism and capitalism, hence the name. The 2003 vintage we tasted was a blend of merlot and cabernet grapes. We also tried a Unigato Melnik 2003, a blend of the melnik broad leaf grape and cabernet sauvignon that had been aged for 10 months in Bulgarian and French barrels. And the Unigato Rubin 2004 is a blend of the syrah and nebbiolo grapes. Good prices
Even though I couldn't detect the flavors of "vanilla, coffee, spices, and blackberries" that our hostess pronounced were in these wines, I found the tastes excellent and bought several bottles, as did many others in our group. The wines are reasonably priced at the winery between $5 and $10 per bottle. We also went to the Todoroff winery in the southern region near Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second largest city. The grape of note here is the mavrud, which produces a rich, flavorful red wine. Prize-winning merlot
We tasted a 2004 Mavrud, a strong wine with an alcohol content of 13%. Our hostess said it could be stored from 10 to 15 years, but after aging for four or five years, the alcohol content jumps to 13.5%. She was especially proud of the Merlot Teres 2005 that won a silver medal at Vinalies Internationales in Paris this year, and the fact that the American magazine Wine & Spirit had included Mavrud Gallery 2003 in its 100 most ordered wines for 2006. Todoroff Wines, website: www.todoroff-wines.com
Available in the U.S. from Uniquato Inc., IL; e-mail: sikoninternational_inc@msn.com; website: www.europeanheritagewines.com.
Six free things to do in Rotterdam by Mirjam Pronk
| Fancy a tree house in the city? These apartments in Rotterdam offer all modern conveniences and give a quirky angle to city living. Photo courtesy of Mirjam Pronk |
Amsterdam's kid brother is Rotterdam-the second largest port in the world, and the second largest city in the Netherlands after the capital Amsterdam. And it's recently become popular as a cruise-ship port of call. But what is there to see in Rotterdam, away from the tourist hordes? Here are six suggestions that won't cost you a cent. 1. The Laurenskerk church
The Laurenskerk is Rotterdam's oldest structure. Built between 1300 and 1600, the church has a fine interior-spacious and light. Opening hours are from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day except Monday. On Saturdays, a stamp market is held in the square in front of the church. 2. Tree houses
One of the most spectacular housing projects anywhere is the Blaakse Bos, a bridge across a city boulevard "planted" with "trees," each of which is an individual apartment. Visit this folly of Rotterdam city planners: cross the bridge-it's public domain-and discover an urban landscape with a difference. To see the challenges the dwellers of these apartments face, visit the Museum Cube, open Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. (1.75 euro admission). 3. Outdoor port museum
The Havenmuseum is a collection of disused vessels, cranes, and machines that date back to the days when port activity still took place in the canals of the city. Brought together in what is now the business area and standing against a backdrop of modern office towers, they form an ensemble that is both fun and instructive to wander through. Children love it. 4. Fine art
On a broad quayside along the Westersingel street stands a collection of eight sculptures by well-known artists. From the canal, a side-street leads to the fine art museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, with free entry on Wednesday (normally 9 euro, closed on Monday). The museum has a broad collection of paintings, from medieval to modern times. 5. Tunneling down
Crossing the river Maas by bridge or water taxi is an event. It's also an event to go under it, through the Maas Tunnel. There's a separate entrance for pedestrians and cyclists, leading to a 30-meter-long escalator that takes you down 20 meters into the tunnel. Enjoy the ride down and back up, or just the sight of others maneuvering their bikes on the moving steps.
6. Pilgrims and a Pirate
A former warehouse in Delfshaven, a borough of Rotterdam, has been converted into a museum on the history of the city as a hub of trade. Beyond the entrance, however, is a mini exhibit about Delfshaven and its most famous son, the corsair (later admiral) Piet Heijn. No admission is charged for this part of the museum, and there's also a photo gallery on the ground floor. A few doors down is the church where the English Puritans, who were later to become America's Pilgrim Fathers, prayed before leaving mainland Europe. On Saturday from 1 p.m to 5 p.m., the Oude of Pelgrimskerk welcomes visitors, who can admire the fine interior and the stained-glass window that commemorates the Pilgrims' departure from Delfshaven in 1620.
Chablis-Quality not quantity
by Leigh Fergus 
| This solid wooden wine press in Chablis was made in the 13th century and is cranked back into action
once a year. Photo courtesy of P.S. |
It's hard to imagine that the world's total production of Chablis is concentrated in the vineyards around the ancient village of Chablis in Burgundy. Yet, thanks to the rarity of Kimmeridgian soil, a stony cocktail of limestone and fossilized oyster shells that only crops up here and in the UK village of Kimmeridge, it's the one place in the world with the right terroir and climate to turn the chardonnay grape into this unique white wine. Once upon a time…
The story goes that monks from Tours in the Loire valley fled cross-country to the abbey of St. Germain in Auxerre, Burgundy escaping the Norman invaders in the ninth century. They brought with them little more than the relics of St. Martin and a few chardonnay vines. Miraculously, the vines survived and even thrived on the slopes facing the Serein river, the site of the current Grands Crus. The famous wine followed. Charles the Bald then donated the churches of Chablis and St. Loup monastery in 867 to the Cistercian canon and monks of Tours who settled here and carried on the winemaking tradition.
A wine that keeps well
Choice Chablis
Chablis is closer in taste to champagne without the bubbles than its sister burgundies. My favorite was Les Blanchots Grand Cru 2003 from the Laroche estate but, at 39 euro a bottle, it's not for everyday drinking: pale straw in color, an elegant bouquet hinting of fresh hay and vanilla, fragrant fruity and mineral notes in the mouth, and a smooth silky feel. Pure delight. For a more affordable glass, try the junior appellation Petit Chablis-less flinty but still crisp, offering less complexity-and easy to drink. Try the Domaine du Chardonnay's at just less than 9 euro, or the Laroche Petit Chablis 2005 for 8.25 euro. |
While all around were planted ordinary cépages, easy to turn into basic table wines, the winemakers of Chablis focused on making a clear mineral wine that kept well. By the 18th century, Chablis had established itself as a name for quality throughout France.
Only the chardonnay vines in an area roughly 12 miles by nine along the Serein river can produce this wine-that's less than 17,000 acres. And only seven named vineyards have Chablis Grand Cru status: Les Blanchots, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Les Preuses, Valmur, and Vaudésir. The old lady of the wine world
Despite the Huguenot attacks, the dismantling of church property during the French revolution, and the deadly disease of phylloxera, the wine has survived and is now world famous. To try Chablis, just look around the village and take your pick of venues. Most wine shops offer advice and information in English. The original St. Martin estate is now owned by the Laroche group. If you sign up for a tasting, you may even get a tour of the 13th-century wooden wine press in the Obédiencerie, part of the monastery, hidden away in a little backstreet. Not only is it one of the few remaining presses of the period, but it actually still functions. This grand old lady of the wine world is brought back to life once a year for a harvest festival celebration. Domaine Laroche, 22 rue Louis Bro; tel. 03 8642-8928
Domaine Christian Begue, 14 ter, avenue J. Jaurès; tel. 03 8642-1871
Pascal Bouchard, route d'Auxerre et 5 bis rue Porte-Noël; tel. 03 8642-1864
Where to get a new nose for less than $2,500
by Steenie Harvey Because of the considerably lower prices, 25% of all European cosmetic surgery takes
place in Croatia, Slovenia, and the Czech Republic. CSPRAS, the Croatian Society of
Plastic, Reconstructive, and Cosmetic Surgery maintains a list of surgeon members on its website at: www.kbd.hr/plastkir. The following members have their own websites: --Polyclinic Glumicic, Prilaz Gjure Dezelica 56, 10000 Zagreb; tel. (385)1-377-
91-29; e-mail: info@glumicic.com; website: www.glumicic.com.
--Dr. Rajko Toncic, Kresimirov trg 15, 10000 Zagreb; tel. (385)1-461-88-88;
e-mail: rajko@toncic.net; website: www.toncic.net.
--Dr. Mladen Dobrovic, Zelinska 5/II, 10000 Zagreb; tel. (385)1-617-00-77;
e-mail: mladen.dobrovic@zg.tel.hr; website: www.ordinacija-dobrovic-zg.hr. These are the prices quoted on Dr. Toncic's website. Discounts are offered for two or
more treatments: | Face lifts: | 3,960 euro ($5,573) | current average U.S. price: $7,000 | | Mini-lifts/forehead lifts: | 2,640 euro ($3,715) | $4,000 | | Breast enlargement/reduction: | 3,240-3.740 euro ($4,560-$5,265) | $5-8,000+ | | Breast lift: | 3,240-3.740 euro ($4,560-$5,265) | $5-6,000 | | Liposuction: | | | | abdominal region: | 2,040 euro ($2,872) | $3-6,000 | | waist: | 2,040 euro ($2,872) | $2,700 | | Nose improvements: | 1,680-2,200 euro ($2,364-$3,096) | $5,000 | | Ear improvements: | 1,200 euro ($1,690) | $3,000 | | Correction of upper and lower eyelids: | 2,040 euro ($2,872) | $4,000 | Chemical peeling and
dermo-abrasion: | 1,200 euro ($1,690) | $3,500 |
A sweeter smile
His colleague, Dr. Mladen Frntic, e-mail: dinko@toncic.net, offers cosmetic dentistry. Here are some sample prices:
| Tooth repair: | 60-80 euro for each tooth ($85-$113) | $200 | | Root canal filling: | 60-80 euro each canal ($85-$113) | $60 | Ceramic crown
(with root filling if necessary) each tooth: | 390 euro ($550) | $1,000 | | Implant w/ Zircon ceramic crown: | 850 euro ($1,199) | $3,000 | | Dentures: | 700 euro ($1,557) | $1,500 |
[Editor's Note: Steenie's not having anything remodeled that we know of, but she says that, outside Dubrovnik, Croatia still has an affordable cost of living, not just for tummy tucks and molars. More information about this country is in her Croatia: The Owner's Manual.] IL |
