Must-See Tourist Trap, or Picture-Perfect Wedding Village? The European
Vol.1. Issue no. 41
September 18, 2007
Paris, France 
| Is this village just too picture-perfect? Read on to find out what two different writers make of Portugal's medieval village, Obidos. Photo courtesy of www.istockphoto.com. |
Despite the massive support from French fans and advertisers, the Blues are not doing well in the Rugby World Cup. My neighbors started off rowdily supporting France in the first match, but their cheers became distinctly feebler as Argentina gained ground. The giant screen on the city hall square in Paris is still attracting crowds, but the viewers are now cheering different teams…and I hear that the atmosphere is more positive in Cardiff and Edinburgh. But if you're not thrilled by the sporting events on offer (yes, there's football, too, and the Russians have just become the European basketball champions), then read on for two different views on a medieval village in Portugal. Attention Readers: Special Announcement A few months ago we published two articles from an agent in Romania, Kevin Stillmock who was representing properties in the American Development in Transylvania Romania. We have recently been informed by the developer that he is no longer working with Kevin Stillmock. If you have had any contact with Mr. Stillmock in the past, please contact the developer, Jim Shivers, directly at: jshivers@americandevelopments.srl.ro for more information.
Bests, Leigh Fergus
Editor, The European
Portugal's Medieval Jewel:
The Walled Village of Obidós by Bob Samborski The ancient wall of Obidós appears suddenly, just off the A8 motorway an hour north of Lisbon. It rests like a tiara on a large hill, a geophysical anomaly in the surrounding low-lying farmland. Inside the wall is a jewel-one of Portugal's most treasured historic villages. A walk up a cobbled road from a nearby parking area delivers you to the original old stone gateway. The small entrance vestibule with large stone steps leads to the top of the wall. A leisurely walk around the ramparts takes about an hour, and is a definite must-do. The walls offer spectacular views of the main castle and countryside. Looking down into the village, a sea of red tiles parts in places to reveal splashes of vivid blues, yellows, and reds against bright white stuccoed walls. Not exactly a secret, Obidós attracts its share of visitors. Tour groups of Britons, Germans, French, and Portuguese visit during the peak hours of the day. It's a convenient one- or two-hour stop between the palaces of Sintra to the south and the religious pilgrimage cities of Braga and Fatima to the north and east. Most groups quickly move on, but to simply rush down what serves as the main street in this village to see the castle and climb to the top of the wall deprives the visitor of a truly remarkable experience. A night within the walls
Spending the night within the walls significantly enhances the entire experience. Options range from a fairly pricey Pousada (one in a chain of restored castles and manor houses that dot the Portuguese countryside) to pension-style accommodations in smaller privately owned houses. Once the tour buses and day visitors leave, the place assumes a blissful quiet. There are not many nightlife options in Obidós, but that fits well with its spirit. Unlike many places in Portugal, the restaurants and bars close at 10 p.m., and are usually empty well before then, especially in the off-season. Take an after-dinner stroll through the village's narrow cobbled lanes and you are likely to be completely alone, the only sound…the echo of your footsteps on the stone, the only light…the occasional soft glow of lamps illuminating lace window coverings.
Obidós has a variety of cozy, reasonably priced restaurants. Most menus feature traditional Portuguese fare: fresh fish, octopus and shellfish, grilled beef and pork, hearty soups and stews, and the ubiquitous salted cod. Village shops contain a variety of quality local handicrafts-unique carved stone and wooden pieces, creative glasswork, and wonderful examples of traditional Portuguese tiles. Several shops feature tiles that are faithful replicas of designs used in the 14th and 15th centuries, many of which appear on the walls and facades of historic structures in Lisbon, Porto, and Sintra. Great buys can be found in red and white wines from local producers, as well as from the famous vineyards in the Douro and Dão river valleys. A bottle of port wine, available at incredibly low prices in some village shops, also makes a gourmet souvenir or gift. Three options for staying inside the walls
(All rates are for double occupancy, high season, breakfast included)
Bargain
Casa S. Tiago do Castelo, cozy eight-room house converted into a pension-style inn across from the castle; website: www.maisturismo.pt/castelo. Price: 80 euro ($110). Mid-range
Casa das Senhoras Rainhas, beautifully restored manor house against the wall; several rooms feature patios; good restaurant on site; website: www.senhorasrainhas.com/ingles/start.htm. Price: 165 euro ($225). Top end
Pousada do Castelo, one of the top 500 hotels in the world, according to Travel & Leisure Magazine; a nine-room section of a 16th-century castle, the Pousada is worth the splurge; website: www.pousadasofportugal.com/portugal/pousada/obidos.html. Price: 250 euro ($340).
A Night in an Obidos nunnery by Steenie Harvey
| The walled village of Obidos, Portugal attracts thousands of visitors in peak season--so make sure you don't fall for the tourist traps. Photo courtesy of Steenie Harvey. |
I feel stupid. Given the key to a third-floor room, I've just asked the Estalagem do Convento's receptionist if the place has an elevator. Why did I think it would? In the shadow of the high Obidos walls, it was originally built in the 1830s to house nuns, not travelers burdened with luggage. As some readers are aware, I'm not exactly convent material. Trudging up the endless stairs, I'm thankful the whitewashed building has proper rooms instead of spartan cells. However, the $13 starters on its restaurant menu aren't the norm for central Portugal. Although Estalagem means "inn," its prices make many guests feel obliged to dress in their finery to dine here. The cozily dim bar with its beamed ceilings looks enticing, but it isn't a real inn where horny-handed farm laborers and travelers in ratty old jeans hang out. Too popular for its own good
Including a decent breakfast, double rooms in the "convent" cost a fairly reasonable $74 nightly (e-mail: estconventhotel@mail.telepac.pt). Yet, while I've no complaints about the accommodation-apart from some nasty whiffs from what are probably 19th-century drains-I'd advise against overnighting in Obidos. Go on a day trip from Lisbon, the spa town of Caldas da Rainha, or Peniche (30 minutes distant on the Atlantic coast), and take a picnic lunch. Why? Because Obidos is now too popular for its own good. Since the 13th century when the tradition started, it was the bridal dowry of Portugal's kings to their queens. Architecturally, "the Wedding Village" is a picture-perfect walled settlement with an imposing castle, cobbled lanes, tiled archways, and a blossom-fest bursting from tiny gardens, flowerpots, and even wheelbarrows. Undeniably pretty, Obidos attracts thousands of visitors. If you're expecting medieval mystery, it's disappointing. The relentless tramp of tourist feet has completely destroyed any romance or magic. You can barely shuffle along the narrow main street even in March, let alone in summer. The best way to describe it is a must-see tourist trap.
Almost every shop within the walls is now a souvenir outlet stocked with tea-towels, a slew of factory-produced crafts, and other over-priced junk. And the few restaurants seem to operate a cartel: poor-quality food at inflated prices-almost double what you'll pay elsewhere in central Portugal. The same goes for the village's one poky "mini-market." Here soft drinks are more than twice what normal supermarkets charge. Realizing more suckers will be along tomorrow, business owners can get away with such blatant profiteering. Most travelers don't realize there's a proper supermarket (Pingo Doce) down the road in the modern part of Obidos. After a ludicrously priced dinner, I tried the local specialty: a cherry-chocolate liqueur called ginja or sometimes ginjinha. Although only a tiny glass, (pitifully tiny for $4.90) it's like swallowing an entire box of cherry brandy chocolates in one go. If you're not sweet-toothed, give it a miss. P.S. The one Obidos agency I came across currently lists a couple of small two-bedroom refurbished houses within the walls for ?249,000 ($324,000) and ?290,000 ($377,000). I'm not prepared to give it publicity as it seems aimed at UK buyers with more money than sense. You can buy similar properties for a lot less through other agents in nearby towns as well as better-value homes in modern Obidos and its surrounding countryside. I'll tell you where to find them in future issues.
Helsinki's best outdoor bars and cafés 
| The nautical view from Café Carousel's terrace. Photo courtesy of Lisa Sabol-Sikorski.
|
by Lisa Sabol-SikorskiOnce you're done with the saunas and the Art Nouveau buildings in this Nordic capital, it's time to join the Finns and make a beeline for the outdoor cafés to enjoy the last rays of summer sun. Café Ursula has a huge outdoor terrace on the Baltic Sea with a view of Suomenlinna, Helsinki's original island military fortress. The café is a short walk from the Olympia Terminal (a cruise ship terminal in the city's South Port), Kaivopuisto Park, and the downtown shopping district. They serve some of the best salads in town: The warm goat's cheese salad ($17.75) with a bowl of cold, smoked, creamy salmon soup is classic Finnish fare at its best. Wash it down with a draft Koff beer, just like the locals do. Address: Ehrenströmintie 3. Open every day until midnight Café Carousel also has a large outdoor terrace on the water and is close to a large pleasure craft marina. Local bands perform on weekend nights and it's a popular destination for people to show off their vintage cars. You can catch a boat to the island beaches of Pihlajasaari or Uunisaari from the dock next to the café for about $6 round-trip. Merisatamaranta 10. Open every day until 10 p.m. At the Palace Hotel, go to the roof, order a vodka martini from the bartender, and enjoy one of the best panoramic views of Helsinki and the harbor. Eteläranta 10. Open Mon. - Sat. until midnight. Café Esplanad is an Old-World European-style café located on one of Helsinki's main pedestrian and traffic thoroughfares, the Esplanad. It's a perfect place to stop for a quick lunch, like the open-faced baby shrimp sandwich ($11), which can be had in the self-serve section, or for a more leisurely meal in the sit-down bistro inside. Also, this is a favorite for pastries, like the sweet Finnish cinnamon rolls known as korvapuusti. Pohjoisesplanadi 37. Open every day until 10 p.m.
Farther down the Esplanad, Café Strindberg is similar in atmosphere to Café Esplanad but the people-watching is better because it gets more pedestrian passersby. Order a caffe latte, grab a table outside, and if you listen closely, you may overhear diplomats posted to Helsinki holding court here. Café Strindberg is part of the Kamp Galleria, an upscale shopping complex in the heart of Helsinki. Pohjoisesplanadi 33. Open every day until 10 p.m. Kappeli Café and Bar has a large outdoor terrace in the middle of the pedestrian park on the Esplanad. On summer afternoons patrons can listen to bands or watch dance performances on the outdoor stage next to the bar. Besides sandwiches, the deli counter has salads for around $11.50-perfect for a light lunch. The fresh salmon and sun-dried tomatoes are favorite picks. Eteläesplanadi 1. Open Mon. - Thurs. until midnight, Fri. - Sat. until 2 a.m., Sunday until 11 p.m. IL | 
