The Hills Are Alive 
| The swirling waters of Liechtensteinklamm, where a mountain stream has raged through the ages to create this striking gorge just outside of Salzburg. Photo courtesy of Neil Harkins. |
The European
Vol. 1, Issue no. 25
May 29, 2007
Paris, France Europe's gearing up for the great outdoors again. The Chelsea Flower Show in London last week was a gentle way to get acclimatized, here in Paris the French Open (Roland Garros) kicked off yesterday, and speed-junkies can have their fix of revving at the Formula One in Le Mans at the weekend. If, like me, you prefer the wild outdoors and are tempted by long country walks, then read on to find out what the outskirts of Salzburg have to offer. But if you'd rather take the car than walk a single step, and Italy is your destination, we reveal our top Insider Tip for Italian drivers-it might even save your life. Enjoy! Leigh Fergus
Editor, The European
The Other Salzburg:
Five-day trips in the outskirts by Neil P. Harkins Once you have visited Mozart's home, attended a concert, and taken one of the many "Sound of Music" tours in Salzburg, Austria, it's time to get out of the city for some truly memorable experiences. The state of Salzburger Land lies amid the finest scenery in the country and the following are easy day trips to see the best of it. Hohenwerfen Fortress I'll take the high road…
All are accessible from the same set of roads (travel distance and times are from Salzburg): From Salzburg, travel south on A10 to Werfen, the fortress, and ice cave (29 miles, 30 minutes). Continue south on A10, then south on B311 toward Bischofshofen, then to St. Johann im Pongau and Liechtensteinklamm (40 miles, 45 minutes). Continue west on B311 toward Zell am See and south on L271 to Fusch an der Glocknerstrasse and the Hochalpenstrasse (62 miles, 1 hour 15 minutes). Continue west on B311 toward Zell am See, west on B168 to Mittersill, then west on B165 to Krimmel and the waterfall (91 miles, 2 hours 10 minutes). |
Looming above the town of Werfen, this imposing 11th-century fortress contains an extensive collection of ancient weaponry as well as a falconry museum in the courtyard that features falcons, hawks, eagles, and owls in free flight. The handlers, dressed in period costumes, lend authenticity to this ancient sport. The path up to the fortress is steep, but transportation is available from the lower parking area. (www.Salzburg-Burgen.at/en/Werfen)
Ice cave
Eisriesenwelt or Ice Giant World, high above Werfen, is the world's largest ice cave system. Water seeping through the cave ceiling froze to produce extraordinary formations and galleries through which tours are conducted-many of the formations are backlit with colored lighting to create fascinating effects. The entrance is reached via cable car or bus (from Werfen), private vehicle, or scenic walk. Wear warm clothing, sturdy shoes, and gloves. Liechtensteinklamm Gorge
Just east of St. Johann im Pongau, the Grossarler Ache wild mountain stream has carved a deep narrow canyon; in some places the opposing walls are just a few feet apart. The stream rages through the gorge, cascading down the rocks, and waterfalls abound. A wooden footpath crisscrosses the stream, providing convenient access along the Klamm (gorge). Bring a plastic poncho for protection from the constant mist. Grossglockner mountain and Hochalpenstrasse
Follow the signs south of Zell am See to the Hochalpenstrasse or high alpine (toll) road, one of the most beautiful scenic routes in the world, rising to more than 8,200 feet and traversing the Hohe Tauern National Park before continuing toward Italy. Grossglockner, the highest mountain in Austria, and Pasterze Glacier can be viewed from the Franz-Josefs-Höhe rest stop. Krimmler Waterfall
Outside the village of Krimmel flows Europe's tallest waterfall, dropping almost 1,250 feet in three stages, with a deafening roar. You can walk up to its base, or drive to the top of the falls. Fed by a glacier, the falls freeze over in winter.
A foothold in one of Europe's most
charming capitals-for $81,000 by Bart Nabrdalik 
| Close to Schönbrunn park, this stylish revamped building has apartments with air-con for under $230,000 but cheaper footholds are not far. Photo courtesy of Immototal. |
If you've fallen in love with Austria-and don't want to leave Vienna-you may be heartened to learn that property can be affordable here, considering it's one
of Europe's most charming capitals. Here's an overview of what's available. For houses with a history, Vienna offers plenty of choice. Since the city was almost untouched by World War II, most of the housing is in the traditional stone or brick tenements and is well-maintained. The population has actually shrunk over the last century, so there are not many new housing estates on the city edge, which is dominated instead by old townhouses with character.
The desirable 18 and 19 Bezirke
The city is divided into 23 numbered districts or Bezirke, 1 being the old core of the city, 2-9 the surrounding inner city suburbs, with 10-23 forming the outer edge of the metropolis on the blue Danube. Real estate is most expensive in the central districts 1-9 where prices currently start at 200,000 euro ($270,000) for studio apartments of up to 400 square feet. For an approximately 700-square-foot, two-bedroom apartment, you can expect to pay over 300,000 euro ($405,000). In the outer districts there are significant price variations between the working class and smart districts. Within the immigrant-dense tenth district, called Favoriten, studios can be found for 60,000 euro ($81,000), while a two-bedroom apartment can be had for 120,000 euro ($162,000). Although Favoriten is much safer than Parisian banlieues or London's Brixton, it's clearly down-market and the cheapest place in the capital. Much more desirable are the well-heeled districts 18 and 19, bordering on the hilly Vienna Woods, where studios average at 150,000 euro ($205,000). Turn-of-the-(20th) century villas of up to 3,000 square feet, with gardens, start at 1 million euro ($1,350,000). The Kurier (www.immomedia.at) and Die Presse are the newspapers that offer the most real estate listings in their Saturday editions. Tomitz & Winkler (tel. +43 676/474-6685; e-mail: office@tw-immobilien.at ; www.tw-immobilien.at), and Immototal (tel. +43 1-886-8888; email: info@immototal.at; website: www.immototal.at/real-estate-vienna-austria/index-en.php) are realtors we recommend.
How to drive Italian style by Martina Latini Driving in Italy can be tricky for even the most experienced driver. Here are my secrets to surviving behind the wheel, Italian style. Speed
The speed limit on the autostrade (toll highways, marked by green signposting) is 130 km per hour (80 mph) and on strade statali (national roads, marked by blue signposting) is 110 kmph (70 mph). Only old men driving Fiat Pandas keep to the speed limits-if you are the owner of a brand new Alfa Romeo, you're not expected to. Communication
If you want to overtake, invite the driver in front of you in the fast lane to get the hell out of your way by driving a few inches from his or her bumper, flashing your headlights or honking your horn. Traveling at high speed is no reason to curb your contact with the outside world. Use your cell phone freely to make or receive calls, or why not send text messages while you're behind the wheel? Parking
Try to park in doppia fila, creating a second line of cars along the road, successfully blocking both the traffic on the road and the drivers of cars parked correctly who wish to leave. Don't waste time looking for a parking space while approaching your destination. Instead, wait until you reach the restaurant you've booked, and if you can't leave your car on the doorstep because someone else already has, keep driving until you find a suitable parking place, such as a disabled space, driveway, or bus stop. Alternatively, just stop your car wherever you want, with the hazards on. This is Italian for "I'm just having a quick coffee in the bar here; will be out in a second!" My insider's advice for Italians drivers-to-be? Take the train. Seriously. Trains reach the remotest parts of the country, are cheap (especially considering that gas is about $6 per gallon), and will allow you to sit back, enjoy the stunning views of the Bel Paese, and forget about the stress of driving. [Editor's note: Please remember: One good reason for you not to speed is the notoriously high death toll on Italian roads. Another is the polizia stradale or road police: Fines for speeding can be as much as $350.]
Art Deco dining by Leigh Fergus Outside of Lisbon, Portugal it can be hard to find a restaurant with an appealing menu in an attractive setting: The ever-present Formica tables, tiled walls, and harsh lighting don't do much to make you linger. In the university city of Coimbra, however, midway between Lisbon and Porto, I found the perfect eatery for an elegant long lunch or a leisurely dinner with not a neon light in sight.
| Dine in style in riverside elegance at the Amphitryon, in the Astoria Hotel, Coimbra. Photo courtesy of P.S. |
A museum piece
The Amphitryon should be listed as a national treasure. Part of Hotel Astoria on the riverfront, it is an Art Deco museum piece-except that it is in use every day. The high ceilings and tall windows give light to the otherwise wood-paneled somberness that pervades, and all the fittings are well-polished originals, right down to the cruet sets.
The menu is varied and the soups, especially the vegetable soup of the day, are a sure bet. As expected, the fish selection includes salted cod (served cold with tomatoes and coriander on a puree of chickpeas for a modern starter, or hot on a bed of spinach as a main), but extends to fresh breaded squid with dark rice, a bream fish in pastry with grilled vegetables, and shrimps in garlic. The meat options cover local black pig pork fillet, the popular regional stew (alentejano), and roast lamb, all served by attentive black-aproned waitresses with enough English and French to deal with our requests. Portions are generous, but you might be able to squeeze in a little dessert-perhaps the chocolate mousse creation, or the ethereal molotov, a caramelized version of îles flottantes? Try the wine
And don't forget to try the rare resinous Buçaco white wine here; it has enough character to accompany most of the meat dishes as well as the fish. Remember that it's hard to find exceptional wine outside of the acceptable local table wines (and difficult to spend more than 3 euro on good local wine in the countryside shops) in this part of Portugal.
Afterward, why not explore the rest of the ground floor of the hotel, with its individual writing desks (and eclectic selection of books in the reading room), faded pink armchairs, and perfect deco tables and mirrors? If you have a coffee or cocktail in the lounge area, you can admire the postcards of a bygone age.
Restaurante Amphitryon, av. Emidio Navarro 21, Coimbra; tel: +351 239-85-3020.
Starters range from 5 euro to 10 euro, mains average 15 euro ($20). IL |
