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The European
Vol. 1, Issue no. 9
February 6, 2007
Luxembourg, Luxembourg

From well-trodden paths in south-west France to the "secret" Europe…

Paris smoke

In France, more smokers are seen out on the streets as public places are now banned to them. But what about cafés and restaurants? Watch this space…
Photo courtesy of Leigh Fergus

Now that I'm back in my spiritual non-smoking home (more on this later in the month) after a little jaunt to Luxembourg, I can get even better prices in the sales (you can, too, if you want to order our Europe-focused products-see the yellow box below). I'm also looking to save money on my next trips with the discounts on early reservations that are offered at this time of year.

For all the jokes about strikes, the French national railway, the SNCF, provides a great service, and I often check out its last minute offers for the week, published on Tuesdays. For the moment my sights are set on Brussels, an easy day trip, and London-however did we manage before the Eurostar? Later on I'll be exploring Burgundy, the south of France, and, once the weather warms up, perhaps the Lake District in the UK.

Plus I'll be heading to a very attractive city-a mystery destination-for our upcoming Live and Prosper in Europe seminar this September. I cannot as yet reveal where it'll be held, but you can sign up for an e-mail alert to get the details (once they are confirmed) by e-mailing events@internationalliving.com.

Until then, I hope you enjoy this issue of The European, with the low-down on property in a desirable part of south-west France, and wine tasting in another quiet corner of the continent, off the beaten tracks. Kevin Stillmock brings you the inside story on opportunities in a region of the "secret" Europe, in a seemingly chaotic but also breathtakingly beautiful country that has elevated itself from a former dictator-driven society to the seventh largest member in the EU. Plus you can discover where to get locked up for an evening's entertainment. It's all in Issue 9.


Bests,

Leigh Fergus
Editor, The European


Melnik: a vine Odyssey
by Ty Treadwell

It's wine that draws visitors to the tiny town of Melnik. The region now known as Bulgaria has been active in wine production for nearly 8,000 years-Homer mentions wines from the area in both The Iliad and The Odyssey-and Melnik itself has been a major production center since 1346. While most Americans are unfamiliar with these vintages, Bulgarian wine has been widely exported to Germany, Denmark, and the United Kingdom for decades. In fact, up until 1990 Bulgaria was one of the largest exporters of bottled wines in the world, second only to France, with wines from Melnik reigning supreme among connoisseurs. Winston Churchill himself declared Melnik wines to be his personal favorite, ordering them by the barrel to ensure that he always had plenty on hand.

Seventy-five per cent of the grapes grown in the region are the native broad-leaved vine variety of Melnik. The lands surrounding the town are the only places in the world this variety is grown as attempts to transplant the grape to other countries have continually failed. The wine it produces is dense and bold, the perfect accompaniment to Bulgaria's spicy meat dishes and hearty salads.

Less Melnik wine is being exported these days, but this simply gives wine lovers an excuse to journey here and enjoy what's on offer on site. Most of the wineries offer tasting rooms, some of them in the same caves where the wine is stored, serving wine by the glass straight from the barrel. When we told our waiter that we wanted to buy three bottles to take with us, they were bottled, corked, and labeled right before our eyes.

Getting there
Melnik can easily be reached by train and bus from the capital, Sofia.
A pleasant alternative is to rent a car and savor the beautiful landscape at your own pace. Go in spring and you'll be overwhelmed by the variety of blossoming trees: Cherries, peaches, apricots, figs, and almonds will all flash by in a colorful blur, their intoxicating smell drifting in through your open windows.


Three must-do's in the capital that time forgot
by Anne Coombes

Built by Stalin as his model Soviet city after seeing it reduced to rubble in World War II, Minsk remains a beautiful city. Its wide tree-lined avenues lead you through a succession of open squares and parks and the colonnaded facades really are breathtaking.

But why come here? Here are a few recommended must-dos…

Firstly, Minsk offers an authentic soviet experience. Although ostensibly European, Belarus' capital continues to hearken back to a time even Moscow has forgotten. Hammers and sickles adorn almost every building, and the streets (Lenin, Karl Marx, Engels…) are kept spotless by armies of cleaners. The police are a visible presence on most street corners; nobody dares to drop as much as a sweet wrapper. The KGB is still operational-almost certainly keeping hotel rooms for foreigners under surveillance. Meanwhile, the President, known as "Europe's Last Dictator," keeps a tight reign on everything from what's on sale in the shops to who studies at the universities.

Minsk quick facts:

Population: 1.8 million
The climate is temperate-continental with mild damp winters and warm summers. The best period to visit is between May and September, when the average temperature is about 55-66°F (13° - 19° C). The warmest month is July, the coldest January.
Currency is the Belarusian rouble. The exchange rate is currently:
US$ = 2144 Belarusian roubles.

Your options for eating out are limited but the local fare has its own charm. Why not try a bowl of borscht (beetroot soup) or schi (cabbage soup). For more decadent dining, a plate of blini (pancakes) and caviar with Belarusian vodka should do the trick.

Start off the experience by checking into your hotel-don't be surprised by the arctic wind blowing off reception: In Soviet times you were supposed to feel grateful for anything you got, so being pleasant wasn't part of anyone's job description. Some efforts are now being made to improve service, but most staff still tend to look at you as if they'd like you to drop dead-the same applies in shops.
 
My own stay at the Planeta Hotel was most memorable for the breakfast buffet, a compilation of the previous night's leftovers-how else can one explain the profusion of cold brussels sprouts? Although there are no tea-making facilities in the rooms, each floor has a housekeeper to help out. If you go to her office and act out pouring water, drinking, then smacking your lips in pleasure, she'll soon realize that you're desperate for a cuppa'.

Another must-do is to sample the local nightlife. The address to try is the Alcatraz, a nightclub located under the Trade Union Palace in October Square, guaranteed to amuse. This is where you can be locked in your own private cell should the mood take you.

To top off your Minsk experience, I recommend a trip to one of the city's state banyas (saunas). What could be more invigorating than getting naked with a few dozen strangers, steaming yourself into oblivion, then jumping into a barrel of ice cold water before whipping one another with damp birch twigs? And all for the bargain price of $1.


Affordable Dordogne?
by Leigh Fergus

The Dordogne has long been a favorite haunt for the Brits, attracting retired military staff, horsey types, and the well-heeled-all looking for luxuriant countryside, a good quality of life, and space. As such, the locals have been only too keen to cash in on the interest that their region attracts, and this has seen property values rocket even more in recent years.

St Jean Decole

A foothold in the rural idyll of the Dordogne,
southwest France, can still be found for less than $100,000.

Photo courtesy of Leigh Fergus

While the price rises have not always been to the detriment of the locals, it is getting harder to find small habitable places that don't require extensive renovation. At least that's what I thought the last time I went to visit properties near my favorite town, the gothic-sounding Sorges. Sure, there are plenty of carefully presented longères and maisons de maître that go for top dollars, but there are still surprises-pleasant surprises-to be had here.

I recently visited the area with nothing more in mind than sampling a little unspoiled countryside and admiring the gardens (the village of St. Jean-de-Côle has made a name for itself country-wide, blooming tastefully every summer in time for the flower show). But, as I leaned over yet another impossibly photogenic mossy wall to admire the plants, I noticed a real estate office, or agence immobilière.

Local contacts:
Agence Immobilière Herman de Graaf
, Le Bourg, 24800 St.Jean-de-Côle, France; tel. (+33) (0) 55362-3803; e-mail: agence@immobilier-dordogne.com
Agence Nontron Immobilier, 3, rue Carnot, 24300 Nontron, France; tel: (+33)(0)55360-5310; website: www.laroche-immo.com
Immoland, 12 rue Jules Sarlandie, 24800 Thiviers; tel: (+33) (0) 55352-6606; e-mail: immo.land.thiviers@wanadoo.fr 
Closer inspection told me that the Agence, run by transplanted Dutchman Herman de Graaf, offered more than simply châteaux and mansions. Photos showed a fishing lake with wooden chalet and small forest going for 76,000 euro ($99,000) in the area. This is much more in my budget-and personally manageable, I tell myself-than the majestic 19th-century nine-bedroom manor, complete with chapel, dormitory, and campsite facilities, on sale for 390,000 euro ($504,000) on more than 2 acres. This is not to mention the restored stone farmhouse with guest cottage that could be used for a holiday rental, with a price tag of 311,000 euro ($402,000)…

Heartened by this discovery, I spotted notices for a tidy two-bedroom townhouse with adjoining barn and outbuildings, all ready to move into, for 81,000 euro ($105,000), as well as a charming four-bedroom home in the historic town of Bourdeilles, not far from the castle, offered at 76,000 euro ($99,000). This may be an affordable region after all…if you take the time to look.


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