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The best fish and chips in England

by Leigh Fergus

With chicken tikka and sweet and sour pork ranking as two of the most popular dishes in England, you'd be forgiven for thinking that we have no native cuisine. But we do. It may not compete with French, Indian, or Chinese in terms of variety and sophistication, but for a reasonably priced fill-you-up type of meal, you can't do much better than traditional fish and chips.

Although this humble fare is currently being given a new lease on life by trendy, big-city restaurants that serve it with a glass of white wine, I prefer mine in its basic form, doused in malt vinegar, wrapped in kitchen paper, and eaten out of sight of greedy gulls on a windy seafront, or in the cozy shelter of a real café-or caf'. And the best is to be found up north, on the northwest coast of England at Harry Ramsden's, on the Blackpool promenade.

Harry Ramsden's is a chain of efficient good-value family-friendly fish-and-chips outlets, and their haddock in light batter is unbeatable. Generous portions are served with perfectly golden chips (French fries) and peas or baked beans. Sliced bread and butter is on the table if you need it. Washed down with a strong pot of tea, there's nothing like it after a bracing walk on the beach (most seaside walks are "bracing" here, even in the heart of summer) or to prepare you for the din and excitement of the arcades.

A more upmarket-and independent-fish outlet is on the other side of the country in northeast Whitby, at the Magpie. The queues here for fresh take-away fried cod or haddock and chips speak for themselves as they stretch on along the seafront of this Victorian resort, testimony to the Magpie's consistent good quality. As well as the traditional fried cod, a wide selection of fish and seafood is served here too. You may have to wait a bit longer than at Harry's, but the service is good, the batter crisp, and the surroundings a touch more genteel.

Harry Ramsden's, 60-63 The Promenade, Blackpool FY1 4QU; tel. +44 (0)1253 294-386. Open seven days a week: 11.30 a.m.- 9 p.m. Sun-Thurs, closing 10 p.m. Fri-Sat. Haddock and chips: £7.49. Other outlets exist in London, Brighton, Manchester, Sheffield…

The Magpie, 14 Pier Road, Whitby, YO21 3PU; tel: +44 (0)1947 602-058. Open: Mon - Sun: 11:30 a.m. - 9 p.m. Haddock and chips: from £7.49.


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