The best seat in Prague

by Don Wilkinson

There is a park bench in Prague that is unarguably the best seat in the entire city--a bench with a view so spectacular that I am loathe to divulge its location.

There are two essential times during the day to get to this bench. The first is at 11:30 a.m., so that you are seated precisely at noon. The view doesn't change at that time, but your impressions surely will. The reason? At 12 noon every day of the year, each bell begins to ring out across the city from Prague's numerous spires, towers, and steeples. Is it any wonder that Prague is known as the "city of a 100 spires"?

Experience the crescendo

From the old city spread at your feet, the melodic chiming of hundreds of bells gathers and channels into a crescendo that echoes around the orchard-covered hills surrounding you. Anyone lucky enough to be sitting on that bench, at that moment, will feel each and every note that seems to set the air dancing in celebration of the day.

The chiming of the bells continues for at least six-sometimes as many as 12-minutes after the hour, but the resonating tones remain long after the last bell has been struck. You can never tell precisely when the last note has gently retreated from your conscious memory.

Golden reflections

While you sit on the bench, gaze down at the numerous bridges that span the winding river, the castle and cathedral on the hill to your left, the many churches scattered across the city, and the vast orchards cascading down the slopes at your feet.

Now imagine that marvelous view at midnight (again taking your seat at least a half an hour in advance) with those same towers and churches illuminated and reflecting golden in the sluggish waters of the river. Imagine it with the sounds of those bells counting off the final minutes of the dying day.

I really don't wish to share "my" bench. But I will. It's halfway along the upper path that runs between Petrin Hill and Hradcany, just below the Starhov Monastery.