Mugged (Almost) in San Jose, Costa Rica International Living Postcards--your daily escape Wednesday, May 2, 2007
San José, Costa Rica You hear a lot about the high crime rate in the Costa Rican capital of San José. On this trip, I took what I thought were the appropriate precautions. Street crime, I was told, occurs almost exclusively at night. As hotels advise their guests, I didn't go out after dark--even if it meant taking a taxi only a couple of blocks to and from a restaurant. Plus, I avoided high-crime areas (such as Avenida 5) during the day. Unfortunately, my precautions weren't enough. On Sunday afternoon--long before dark--I walked from the pedestrian shopping area to my hotel. I noticed a shabbily dressed man walking unsteadily about 50 feet in front of me. He didn't look particularly dangerous since he was a little old for a thug (maybe in his 40s) and had trouble keeping his balance. But he kept looking back at me. After the third or fourth time he did this, I realized that he was actually looking at someone behind me--his colleague who was tailing me, also unsteadily. The pair closed in fast. I looked around, hoping to find a store to duck into or other pedestrians who might help. But it was Sunday. The streets were deserted and shops were closed. I considered running, but a few feet were all that now lay between us. Out of desperation, I stopped cold, and looked at the guy in front of me square in the eye. I made a fist with my right hand and slammed it threateningly into my open left hand. "Vete!" I shouted at the top of my lungs. (Spanish for "scram.") My reaction must have been the last thing the bums expected. They both ran off as fast as they could stumble, and I walked quickly on to the hotel without further trouble. As I walked, I realized that the men had probably been drunk or on drugs. Evidently, they spotted me, a gringo, for an easy mark. Despite my success in scaring them off, I wouldn't recommend my tactics to you. What if these goons carried knives, as many street robbers do in San José? The real lesson is to avoid deserted streets during the day (as well as any streets at night). And if confronted, hand over your money quickly. It's a small price compared with the damage that a weapon could do. People I've talked with here--both Costa Ricans and expats--all have their own stories about crime in the city. Previous governments ignored the problem or played it down. The current government, however, has plans to deal with crime by building up the police force, including the new Tourist Police. The almost universal consensus is that crime has peaked in most areas and will soon start to decline. The real answer, however, may lie in Costa Rica's improving economy--not just tourism but also the growing high-tech service industry, which is visible throughout the capital. If the guys on the street had even modestly paying jobs, it's a safe bet that they wouldn't have confronted me. Did this incident sour me on Costa Rica? Not at all. Crime is simply a problem that knowledgeable people learn to deal with in an otherwise beautiful, friendly country. Don Ediger
For International Living Editor's note: The Costa Rica First Alert is a new free service for people who want to learn more about this beautiful country, brought to you by our Latin America Insiders. As a member, you'll learn first about the best travel, real estate, retiree, and business opportunities that Costa Rica offers. Here's how to sign up. | 
