The Charms of Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second city
by Leah Larkin
| A typical street in the Old Town of Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second largest city. Photo courtesy of Nazareen Heazle. |
"That building was owned by my grandparents," our guide Ghergana Toleva told us, pointing out a five-story house on a major pedestrian street. We were walking down the Alexander Battenberg drag in Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second largest city. During the Communist era (1944-1989) this former hotel had been seized by the authorities and then, more recently, leased to a clothing shop owner. Toleva's family is now trying to regain full possession.
Few signs of those bleak Communist days remain in this pleasant town of 320,000 on the banks of the Maritsa River, southeast of Sofia. McDonald's and Versace, fur shops and Salamander shoes, as well as outdoor souvenir stands selling Byzantine paintings and icons, all beckon buyers in the lively commercial hub. The city's real charm lies a few blocks away in the Old Town. Old houses, owned by Plovdiv's upper-crust merchants in the 18th and 19th century, line cobblestone streets. Some house museums, galleries, and restaurants. The richly decorated large frame homes are examples of Revival Period architecture, also known as Bulgarian baroque, with bay windows, balconies, and verandas with wooden pillars. Inside, baroque paintings adorn the walls and traditional woodcarvings embellish the ceilings and doors. Mountain backdrop
The neighborhood, once home to a large population of Armenians, is even more popular in summer when tourists come to admire the houses and enjoy the outdoor cafés. Armenians still live in the city, along with Bulgarians, Jews, Turks, and Greeks.
"The people in Plovdiv are very tolerant, calm, and friendly because of these different ethnic societies who live peacefully together," said Toleva. Near the Old Town are the remains of Plovdiv's Roman theater, dating back to the 2nd century. The Rhodope Mountains form a backdrop for the ancient site with stunning views of the city below. The theater's 7,000 seats are often fully occupied for the summer concerts. (Performances are from May through September, with a Verdi festival in May and June, and a film festival in July.) Long before the Romans even, Plovdiv was settled by Thracian tribes, and then Greeks. The Roman era came to an end in the 6th century when Slav tribes invaded, followed by the Bulgars who formed a military elite ruling over the Slav majority. A well-organized state evolved and eventually a Slavic, Christian nation was formed. The town of Plovdiv changed hands between Bulgarians and Byzantines many times until it was absorbed by the Ottoman empire in the late 14th century. Centuries ago, numerous churches could be seen in the town, but many were burned during the 500 years of Ottoman occupation. One jewel that survived is the Saints Constantine and Helena Church, built in 1832 on the site of a 4th-century church. The interior is lavish in gold décor with icons, wooden columns, chandeliers, and baroque carvings. A fresco on the wooden porch shows Constantine's dream: The emperor, regally attired, lies asleep while Christ, holding a cross, emerges in radiant light above his head. The Jumaya Mosque, on the other hand, is in great need of repair-a testament that Plovdiv's Muslim population is dwindling. Sultan Murat II had the town cathedral torn down and built this mosque in its place (1421-1451). It's one of the oldest Muslim temples in the Balkans, and one of the largest in Bulgaria. Toleva moved from her hometown of Plovdiv to a job in Sofia, but admits she much prefers Plovdiv. "Different cultures, monuments, and buildings are interwoven in Plovdiv to create a unique atmosphere," she says. "I visit at least twice a month and, the moment I enter town, I feel at home." The path to Plovdiv
The city is 80 miles from Sofia, about a two-hour bus ride. A regular bus service runs between the two cities every hour between 6 a.m. and 8 p.m.
Bansko is about 155 miles away, three to four hours' drive from Plovdiv, but with just one bus a day between the two cities. Plovdiv pillows
The modern Maritza Hotel, a 10-minute walk from downtown, has double rooms from 70 euros, breakfast included. Website: www.victoria-group.net.
Bulgaria is one of Eastern Europe's cheapest destinations, with good three-course meals for two easily less than $40. IL |
