Eating your way through…Brussels

by Leigh Fergus

Home to the European parliament, the dreadful Manneken Pis, and some of Europe's best examples of art nouveau and art deco architecture, Brussels is also making a name for itself with fine dining options other than the national dish of mussels and fries. On a trip earlier this year, I found plenty of ways to eat my way 'round the city without breaking the bank.

Breakfast for champions

The best place for breakfast has to be at Le Pain Quotidien. This Belgian franchise originated in Brussels offering fresh baked organic bread. They now also serve the butteriest croissants, stickiest pains aux raisins, and most apple-y tartlets with great coffee, tea, or hot chocolate. The city has at least 10 outlets-my favorite is the 11 rue des Sablons location.

Alternatively, why not breakfast on a traditional waffle? Mobile waffle stands can be found on most street corners and if you can find a bench to sit on, get yourself a hot "chocolixir" from Godiva, located nearby on the Grand Place du Sablon, and start off the day on a sweet high.

Nouveau beer

Once you've walked around the château and park, and seen the art nouveau classic Maison Horta in the Saint Gilles district with its exquisitely renovated interior, it'll be time for lunch. One option is to head for the little church square on rue Africaine close by, where several brightly decorated cafés jostle with alternative designer boutiques for your custom.

Or try The Ultimate Hallucination on rue Royale 316, a total art nouveau dream with a generous selection of Belgian beers-be sure to eat in the brasserie rather than the restaurant as you'll get better value for your money (dishes such as the shrimp and potato salad are 15 euro ($20) and the midday set menu is 16 euro). By the way, if you're tempted anywhere in the city by the menu item filet américain, be aware that this is steak tartare: raw, freshly ground beefsteak.

Something fishy

For dinner, steer away from the tourist traps on and immediately around the Gran' Place and the Manneken Pis and make for the Sainte Catherine Quarter, the city's former port and fish market. A number of restaurants offer set menus here from around 20 euro ($27) for three courses.

Rugbymen No.2., Quai des Briques 12 is a good bet, with tables on three floors, a friendly atmosphere, air-conditioning, and efficient service where you can enjoy a full-blown fish supper of fish soup or crab terrine, sea bass with a lightly spiced sauce or half a lobster, and the three-chocolate mousse for dessert for 31 euro ($42).

[Editor's note: Thorough research on Brussels' chocolate options has been carried out on your behalf-read our findings in a future issue of The European.]