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The Other Salzburg:
Five-day trips in the outskirts


by Neil P. Harkins

Once you have visited Mozart's home, attended a concert, and taken one of the many "Sound of Music" tours in Salzburg, Austria, it's time to get out of the city for some truly memorable experiences. The state of Salzburger Land lies amid the finest scenery in the country and the following are easy day trips to see the best of it.

Hohenwerfen Fortress

I'll take the high road…

All are accessible from the same set of roads (travel distance and times are from Salzburg):

From Salzburg, travel south on A10 to Werfen, the fortress, and ice cave (29 miles, 30 minutes).

Continue south on A10, then south on B311 toward Bischofshofen, then to St. Johann im Pongau and Liechtensteinklamm (40 miles, 45 minutes).

Continue west on B311 toward Zell am See and south on L271 to Fusch an der Glocknerstrasse and the Hochalpenstrasse (62 miles, 1 hour 15 minutes).

Continue west on B311 toward Zell am See, west on B168 to Mittersill, then west on B165 to Krimmel and the waterfall (91 miles, 2 hours 10 minutes).

Looming above the town of Werfen, this imposing 11th-century fortress contains an extensive collection of ancient weaponry as well as a falconry museum in the courtyard that features falcons, hawks, eagles, and owls in free flight. The handlers, dressed in period costumes, lend authenticity to this ancient sport. The path up to the fortress is steep, but transportation is available from the lower parking area. (www.Salzburg-Burgen.at/en/Werfen)

Ice cave

Eisriesenwelt or Ice Giant World, high above Werfen, is the world's largest ice cave system. Water seeping through the cave ceiling froze to produce extraordinary formations and galleries through which tours are conducted-many of the formations are backlit with colored lighting to create fascinating effects. The entrance is reached via cable car or bus (from Werfen), private vehicle, or scenic walk. Wear warm clothing, sturdy shoes, and gloves.

Liechtensteinklamm Gorge

Just east of St. Johann im Pongau, the Grossarler Ache wild mountain stream has carved a deep narrow canyon; in some places the opposing walls are just a few feet apart. The stream rages through the gorge, cascading down the rocks, and waterfalls abound. A wooden footpath crisscrosses the stream, providing convenient access along the Klamm (gorge). Bring a plastic poncho for protection from the constant mist.

Grossglockner mountain and Hochalpenstrasse

Follow the signs south of Zell am See to the Hochalpenstrasse or high alpine (toll) road, one of the most beautiful scenic routes in the world, rising to more than 8,200 feet and traversing the Hohe Tauern National Park before continuing toward Italy. Grossglockner, the highest mountain in Austria, and Pasterze Glacier can be viewed from the Franz-Josefs-Höhe rest stop.

Krimmler Waterfall

Outside the village of Krimmel flows Europe's tallest waterfall, dropping almost 1,250 feet in three stages, with a deafening roar. You can walk up to its base, or drive to the top of the falls. Fed by a glacier, the falls freeze over in winter.


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