Popping the Cork in
Buenos Aires October 7, 2004 As we strolled down the quiet, tree-lined, cobblestone streets of Palermo Viejo--the "old city" in Buenos Aires--we were actually heading for dinner at another restaurant when we came across a surprise: a small champagne and jazz café nestled in the middle of a quiet block. Cavas y Cuevas is a champagne drinker's delight, with more than 100 champagne selections on the menu and prices from $3 to more than $120. Before you turn your nose up at the under-$20 options, remember that a lot of the big boys--including Mumms and Chandon--are now growing in Argentina. That, along with Argentina's tax-friendly attitude toward their wines--and the low current value of the peso--means that most fine sparkling whites are surprisingly affordable…wines of a quality that would easily fetch $65 and up in a U.S. restaurant. Cavas y Cuevas also has a great selection of still wines, along with a menu of sushi, pasta, steaks, and poultry. Next time you'd like to try something different in Buenos Aires, you can stop by at Calle Guatemala, 5640 Palermo Viejo. Dinner starts at 9 p.m., with music at 11 p.m. P.S. If you find yourself in Buenos Aires on a Sunday, visit the antiques and flea market in San Telmo. On any day in this neighborhood, you can enjoy a stroll along the quiet streets as you admire the beautiful balconies and fine architecture--and browse the many antique and artisan shops. Sunday, however, brings "pedestrians-only" status to these cobble-stoned streets, and a giant flea market centered on Plaza Dorrego where you can shop for everything from antique corkscrews to reconditioned gramophones and Victrolas. Have the cab drop you at Calle Defensa in San Telmo. Lee Harrison for International Living
Buenos Aires, Argentina
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